Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys I have a 2007 Nissan patrol zd30 and it gets hot quickly, uses a lot of coolant, but passed a compression test, suspecting a possible cracked cylinder head/gasket , need help diagnosing.. Brisbane, only 147000km, overflow coolant take and radiator emptying quickly, have to constantly refill every couple days or so, no visible leaks
 

·
Administrator
GUII ZD30DI Wgn
Joined
·
45,146 Posts
Doesn't sound good if your actually going though coolant, you could try the reverse and pressure test the cooling system, are you sure you have no external leaks?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
You mean a leak down test? Do you know anyone in Brisbane who can do this? No visible leaks, but no smoke either coming from the exhaust, nor does it run rough during initial idle, which are both typical symptoms of a cracked cylinder head?? Could it be a blocked radiator?
 

·
Administrator
GUII ZD30DI Wgn
Joined
·
45,146 Posts
No not a leakdown, an actual pressure test of the radiator etc, how much coolant is it pushing out? And are you actually losing coolant you cannot trace?
A blocked radiator can do that but you need to rule out one thing at a time otherwise you chase your tail.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
A leak down would determine a cracked cylinder head wouldn't it? Oh ok, to do that, do we need to remove radiator? Only gets hot at high speed, and when I stop and let it cool down, usually I find overflow tank and radiator bone dry, but coolant tank still full, no visible leaks, so yeah cannot trace?
 

·
Administrator
GUII ZD30DI Wgn
Joined
·
45,146 Posts
Absolutely, have recently built my own as the one I used to borrow has been lost (not by me lol). This will tell you if you have any leaks, mine recently held 16psi, cold, all day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
well if that's the case, yes we've already done that and mechanic said it passes fine, so he recommended next thing I do is leak down test or change radiator..
 

·
Administrator
GUII ZD30DI Wgn
Joined
·
45,146 Posts
Leakdown test will give you another perspective if they follow the rules. You may not need to change radiator, removal of upper and lower tanks will tell you whether there is an issue, rodding should fix it if blockage is the case, I had mine rodded 2 years ago, had a slight blockage between cap and far end of core, mine is 20 years old.
Are you actually losing coolant or pushing it into the lower bottle?
Ross
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Frustrating, so many possible problems, and so many people telling me to different things.. are you in Brisbane? When they were rodding it, did they have to remove it to do that? When it gets too hot, yes pushing into lower bottle, and expansion tank and rad usually bone dry, I usually wait till cools down, fill up expansion tank and rad and then continue on my way trouble free for a few days, only gets hot high speeds, and then leaving it to sit for a few days, rad and expansion tank still full, but lower bottle empty..??
 

·
Administrator
GUII ZD30DI Wgn
Joined
·
45,146 Posts
Lower bottle should not be full, there are 'level' two marks on the side so check them out. I'm a bit OCD and worry about things excessively sometimes, while away on a long trip the old girl was moving water around a bit more than usual so I called into a supercheap and put some cooling system sealer in and totally screwed it. Yes radiator had to come out to be rodded as they remove the top and bottom plastic casings, my top one actually had internal pitting so it was replaced, not sure why/how that happened as I've always used Nissan coolant at 50/50.
Pics of crap in head of core.
Before
518200


After
518201
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Coolant only appears full when heated up. So I've been told of I get the radiator removed to check it, it can't be put back in? Because some parts flex, warp or twist or something, so I'm obliged to buy a new one if I go down that road? Car was bone dry when I bought it, so I didn't know what coolant to buy, so I just went with green
 

·
Administrator
GUII ZD30DI Wgn
Joined
·
45,146 Posts
Well, all I can say is I took mine out, Nambour Radiators dismantled it, rodded it, fitted a new top tank due to pitting and it was reinstalled.
You should have mentioned the bone dry bit before, that puts a whole new perspective on it, anything could have happened, so I would advise a leakdown test to start with by a reputable mechanic, cooling system pressure test all ready done and passed so you say.
I started a thread on coolants a few months ago, have a look at that Coolant Type for Engines with Aluminium Heads
 

·
Registered
2010 GU DX CRD Grenade :)
Joined
·
578 Posts
As much as I hate to say it, I think you best be budgeting for either a rebuild or putting another motor in it. If it had no coolant in it, it won't have done it any good. Also, these Japanese motors need coolant with low silica, so depending on what the coolant was you put in originally, may not have helped it either.

Good luck and I hope it can be sorted out cheaply...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ah ok that's interesting, I've been told many times once they get pulled out, that's it..
I am not cluey with these kinds of things so I wasn't sure what's an important detail. I am struggling to find anyone who can do a leak down test. Confusing also the best coolant to use, I used green nulon.
I think it had no coolant in it because it was sitting at the auction yard for awhile.
Also I'm looking to buy a radiator because I am hoping it's just a blocked radiator, but all the ones I've seen on ebay have either an overflow pipe on the centre cap mount or a bleed pipe and mine has neither?? Does that matter? I don't want to buy the wrong one..
I am hoping it's not a cracked cylinder head because it doesn't blow smoke and it ticks over nicely when first started up..
 

·
Registered
'14 Y61 ZD30 CRD M/T ST
Joined
·
1,828 Posts
I only use Genuine Nissan Super Longlfe (blue) coolant. @geeyoutoo, why do you mix the Nissan coolant (I assume green Longlife) 50/50? My understanding has always been that it should be used straight. No dilution required...?
 

·
Administrator
GUII ZD30DI Wgn
Joined
·
45,146 Posts
Just followed directions on the 5L container, saying 30% min and 50% max.

518340
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
So got the radiator changed and problem sorted now :D unfortunately I bought the wrong radiator (manual) though but I wasn't in a position to pay the mechanic twice over so we just stuck it in there.. from what I've heard, the transmission is connected to the radiator just to help warm up the tranny quicker when starting in cold temperatures, so should be fine without it in Brisbane? Yes mine is auto
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
thanks.. but it's playing up again, not overheating persay, running fairly hot for the most part, but most concerning, I stopped after 30 minute drive including consistent speeds of 90, and the radiator was rocking.. literally.. for about a minute, including some fizzing and bubbling noises, then all of sudden, sucks all the coolant from coolant tank in one foul swoop.. next stop, bottle of chemiweld I think
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top