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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Over the weekend i had the insurmountable pleasure of starting a "quick Job" (note the quote marks) my tensioner pulley bearing had died and taken out a brand new (and i mean only on the car for three days) drive belt. While under the engine i noticed that there was a weep of oil around the main pulley Aha i'll just change the main seal it's only a small job.... So onto the forum i go and between that and the trusty Gregory's manual i manage to get the nut loosened on the main pulley......

Let me just take a moment now to mention that the nut is a 41mm nut not a 36mm nut as the Gregory's manual states and that it is FAR easier to use a long breaker bar held securely against the underside of the chassis on the drivers side and just hit the key and let the starter motor loosen the nut (hit the key, not start the motor).

Well it's about now that i realize that the fan is going to get in the way so i decide to remove the obstacle before it becomes one and leaning over the side of the patrol into the engine bay reaching in with the trusty 10mm socket i nudge ever so slightly the top radiator hose .......& i hear that most dreaded noise of all dreaded noises the ear splitting or so it seams "Crack" of the 14 yr old radiator parting ways with the top radiator hose with about 2" of the radiator still in it..............

Now this brings me to my question i have been looking at eBay, i have spoken with the radiator guys locally and have priced a PRW replacement, I am leaning towards the Ebay 3 row full aluminum radiator
FOR 3 ROW Nissan Patrol Y61 2 8 3 0 TD Aluminum Radiator MT Manual 97 01 | eBay as it is the same price as the local plastic tanked replacement
Just wandering who had gone this route and pros or cons

Oh and im sure your all all face palming at the moment but that is not all that broke in the engine bay over the weekend hafta go Ebay calls
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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I got my radiator for $165 delivered a couple of weeks ago. Were you having overheating issues prior to this to justify spending more than double?
 

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Over the weekend i had the insurmountable pleasure of starting a "quick Job" (note the quote marks) my tensioner pulley bearing had died and taken out a brand new (and i mean only on the car for three days) drive belt. While under the engine i noticed that there was a weep of oil around the main pulley Aha i'll just change the main seal it's only a small job.... So onto the forum i go and between that and the trusty Gregory's manual i manage to get the nut loosened on the main pulley......

Let me just take a moment now to mention that the nut is a 41mm nut not a 36mm nut as the Gregory's manual states and that it is FAR easier to use a long breaker bar held securely against the underside of the chassis on the drivers side and just hit the key and let the starter motor loosen the nut (hit the key, not start the motor).

Well it's about now that i realize that the fan is going to get in the way so i decide to remove the obstacle before it becomes one and leaning over the side of the patrol into the engine bay reaching in with the trusty 10mm socket i nudge ever so slightly the top radiator hose .......& i hear that most dreaded noise of all dreaded noises the ear splitting or so it seams "Crack" of the 14 yr old radiator parting ways with the top radiator hose with about 2" of the radiator still in it..............

Now this brings me to my question i have been looking at eBay, i have spoken with the radiator guys locally and have priced a PRW replacement, I am leaning towards the Ebay 3 row full aluminum radiator
FOR 3 ROW Nissan Patrol Y61 2 8 3 0 TD Aluminum Radiator MT Manual 97 01 | eBay as it is the same price as the local plastic tanked replacement
Just wandering who had gone this route and pros or cons

Oh and im sure your all all face palming at the moment but that is not all that broke in the engine bay over the weekend hafta go Ebay calls
Sorry to hear you radiator issues, but I am about to change my front crank seal so will try not to emulate you!! Will check the size of the crank bolt before I start too:)) Cheers.
 

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I think I read somewhere you can have a new plastic tank fitted to your radiator if the core is in good condition. Nissan plastic parts is about $180 from (old) memory. If you want to stay genuine Patrolapart in Lilydale sell the genuine Nissan (Calsonic) for about $600-650 a lot cheaper than the dealer. (That is what I did and don't ask why I needed a new one. My story worse than yours).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Didn't have huge heat issues prior Skeg but having already rebuilt the ZD30 once with the endemic cylinder issue I tend to er on the side of caution and keep the engine bay as cool as possible
 

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Ya wouldnt belive it but I have done the exact same thing but it was the headder tank hose just wanted to know what way you went and how did it go
 

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I snapped the little outlet pipe which comes from the radiator and goes to the overflow tank on my RD28.

ended up going for a PWR once piece alloy radiator. Was pricey ($1000) but built well, fast delivery, thicker core and bolted in with shroud and no mods..

didn't want another Nissan radiator with plastic header and bottom nor the hassle of a cheap one or ebay one which needed lots of retrofitting and who knows what the internals were like.. $1000 to not cook and engine for the sake of saving $500-600 was worth it in my books.. you cant rebuild or get a new engine for $500-600..

just my 2c worth..
 

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Reptile'sGU, I did that exact same trick leaning on the top radiator hose and "crack". But it was just a week before we were heading off from WA to the Cape, no time to get a Nissan replacement so I went with a full alloy radiator from a mob in WA. Had it in a day and fitted. The only thing I do not like of a full alloy thicker core radiator is that, first, it was a little thicker so took a bit of trimming on the fan shroud so it could not rub on the new core and secondly the top alloy tank is really hot when you put your bare arm on it as you lean in to check things.

I trimmed the fan shroud where it was too close to the radiator, used a few blobs of silicone sealer in the corners to stop it moving and prevent possible rubbing. I also stuck some EVA foam on top as an insulator to protect myself from burns next time.
 
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