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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, so I brought a nissan Terrano in January for use with our new business. It had apparently had a top End rebuild, new pistons, rings, head and turbo.

19500 km later it scores all the pistons on the front and rear edges melts #2 and puts a hole in #4
So I then found out the rebuild was 2nd hand pistons and recond turbo.

I arranged the reboring work to be done and all new parts supplied. The rebuilder suggested sending the IP away for testing and injectors.

This was done, injectors were fine but a huge list of **** wrong with the injector pump. So I gave the go ahead to recondition the IP $4200 later...

I asked the engine rebuilder to install the pistons, crank and check the tolerances ect.

So I got all these bits back home,
I assembled the rest of the engine with a mechanic coming by to tourque the head and cams down.

I was awaiting the oil jet that sits next to the timing chain, so I left the timing chain cover and water pump off and installed the engine back into the truck. When the oiler arrived the next day these parts followed by the belt, fan and radiator were put in.

I also had the egt gauge ordered so tapped the manifold out to 10mm *1.0,
Unfortunately when the gauge arrived it was 1/8npt. So need to change that now.
I Also have boost m, water temp and oil pressure gauges on the way, they are pretty handy they have an adjustable max warning beeper and flashing face light.

Anyway I get her oiled and water all topped up, and after a water top up I noticed a small amount of milky oil on the dipstick.
Figured Mayby some cleaning product remainder as I never had milky oil after the blow up.

Anyway couldn't start it that night so charged up the battery and got the mrs to turn the key in the morn while I pumped the primer, it took another water top up?? then she was into it in on the 4th turn.
A bit of a squeek at 1500 rpm so I tightened the egr stuff and that got better.

Took it to see the mechanic who said it all sounded good.

I had a small oil leak from a missing tappet cover bolt,

I took her for about a 300km trip but along the way noticed it getting warm,
So pulled up, waited then added about 1.5-2 litres of water.

Kept going, all good. On the way back had the same thing. Got a bit warm and it took about 1-2 litres of water.

All the while I can't see a water leak. And my oils getting milkyer.

This did my head in so the next day I re stripped all the timing cover and gear cover to re seal the lot, as I thought Mayby it was behind the water pump or the likes and dripping into the gear cover.
Resealed and back together new oil again, no oil leak, but still loosing water weather I drive it or not.
But my oil is getting cleaner.
So where is it going?
Occasionally when I start it it sounds rough then comes right which could be air in fuel, or water seepage to a cylinder, however no smoke or steam when this rough start happens. And it doesn't do it every time.

Also it will start on the 4-5th turn with no glow plugs on a frosty morning, I tried to make it smoke when checking for exhaust leak but it still started too well. So wouldn't think there is water in a cylinder for no steam and still starting..

Now when I say it gets warm I'm talking open road speeds with the O/D off to save any labouring. It would go to about 2/3 temp then back to half, then up to 2/3 then back to operation temp.

Got me really confused now that the oil seems to be staying clean but I'm still loosing so much water without any visible leak on the ground or around the engine at all
Replaced rad cap but overflow is still cold even when engine gets warm.

I thought I'd have got any air locks out buy now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok so today's update.
It stayed full of water overnight. However today I clicked up another 320km and after the 1st 130 km she got a little warm only just over half but the heater went cold, so pulled over and topped up the water by about 2 litres,
Again the oil was looking good still proper oil looking on the dipstick but a little white froth on top, the oil cap isn't gaining milk it just has a small amount in the dimple of the cap still,
So I don't think the water is going into the oil anymore,
I'd rather leave the oil in a little longer if possible before a second change.
Anyway another 10 km and went past my mechanic so pulled in for a yarn, he's waiting for his cooling pressure tester to be fixed so that's a bugger, he opened the filler cap and thought it seemed to have a lot of blow by, but i have since read these engines if seem to do that from new. Put another litre of water in and drove a further 95-100km, didn't get warm but had 80-90km till home still so topped up 1 litre and drove home, parked up for a bit the she swallowed 1.8 ish litres,
Still the oil looks good but has a little white froth on top.
The oil level has dropped a tad but I am at 822km total so far, 500 on this oil. And the last 180km was a trip from the Wairarapa to Wellington and back, which some or none of you may know the rimutaka hill road which involves around 23 minutes of steep enough hill road and around 12 minutes of that is relatively constant, positive boost, 15 on the steep and easing to 7-10psi on the easier climbs,

I have filled it with water and will see if it holds over night, I also think I noticed just before dark a small weepage around #4 fuel injector fitting, (DI motor) so thus could explain the brief rough running but still not the water leak.
Short of getting a uv water leak detector and hoping it shows in the exhaust too in really quite stumped about the water leak.

My tap arrived today for the pyro gauge fitting, just wondering now what is best to tap into the manifold around 2-3port or go post turbo once ive gad the 3" exhaust fitted?
 

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LED ZEPPELIN
1995 GQ TD42 NA
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12,022 Posts
Post turbo for the EGT probe is fine. EGTs drop around 200-220 degrees through the turbo.

Water problem is not good... perhaps it is burning the water off in the cylinders i.e. head gasket leak?
 

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Also think about filling with coolant rather than water, once your me Janice has his tester back may give you more of an idea what's happening.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Also think about filling with coolant rather than water, once your me Janice has his tester back may give you more of an idea what's happening.
When I read the post I thought he may have been speaking figuratively, but your comment made me rethink, just in case he isn't. Yes, coolant (I use genuine Nissan coolant so as not to risk cross contamination and chemical reaction) at 50%, would be my recommendation.

Squalo's comment re burn off is very relevant, for you to be losing the amount of water/coolant you are, spots would show up on the floor of your shed/garage if it was leaking externally.

Also the positioning of the EGT probe, we have an EGT survey in the DI archives that was started quite some time ago, so if you put your probe 50mm from the turbo flange into the dump pipe, there are dozens of cross reference data from members in easy to read format in that thread (in polls and surveys), under varying conditions so it tells you a lot about what to expect for your vehicles state of tune etc and transmission type.
 

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Just read post geeyoutoo and yes me Janice made me confused too, supposed to be mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got to love auto correct ay shane

Finaly managed a pressure test the other day avid it held for a while, before dropping to 65psi I think it was.

But it builds pressure in the hoses at 1st sign any warmth.

Same thing today 1.2 litres after 100 ish km.

Heater bypassed to eliminate.
Egr completely removed and blocked.,
Water to egr put strait into block.

When you say to try coolant I'm hearing ya in the way that the warm antifreeze is easier to smell too if it's an external leak, will this show different exhaust signs too?

On an added note, I'm glad I fitted my water temp guage last night. It's in the bung only a little bellow the factory sensor but today the after market be went from 82.C up to just under 90 real quick while the factory gauge sat at normal.....
By the time I stopped the guage was at 95ish but again the factory gauge was just under half way. Added the above said 1.2litres of water all returned to normal temp and went home.

If I topp up last thing at night, its still full in the morning.

I had the head tested and obviously new gasket, and getting me Janice (haha) into torque the head, so pretty darn annoyed that it looks like it's all coming off again..

I took the glow plugs out after my pressure test. They Wernt wet or droplets but looked oily, tho this could have run down the plug on removal rather than a oily spot on the end then dry they were more all oily, 3-4 being more so and a lot warmer when I removed them too.

I put a piece of cardboard over the holes and wound it over with IP unplugged and the spray only looked oily no water droplets ect.


Tempted to try copper shot and sell the bloody thing.
But I am pissed as I thought by now i would have a truck ready fir the next 5-8 years (250-300,000 km)
 
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