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hi all - first post so pls excuse any dumb questions!

I've got a July 2003 auto 3l which has done 12Ok. Over last 6 months or so fuel consumption has worsened and around town (which it does far too much of!) I'm usually getting 17-19 l/100 compared to the 13-15 it used to return.

I know there is not much that can be adjusted on the ZD 30 but I'm getting conflicting advice about best way to to identify/fix what may be causing problems.

A.G. Diesel in Clayton say at 100-120k the injectors & filter should be replaced (=big $). Not sure how they go about deciding if that is the problem though - only answer was 'we can dyno it' but they really seemed keen on replacing the injectors irrespective.
The Patrol 'guru' at a Nissan dealer said that for a car that does a lot of city/short trips etc he would first try using a fuel system cleaner like BG Liquitech (which I couldn't find much info on by googling). Apart from replacing all the filters he also suggested replacing the MAF - he thought they were only about $100? He also recommended taking it to MTQ Diesel in Dandenong (or AG Diesel) but said in his experience replacing injectors @ 100k was pretty rare!

Other possibilities suggested were a cracked intercooler - it seems to be running Ok so how can you identify that - or a worn injector pump - ditto.

I don't mind spending the necessary to get it running right but just worried that changing injectors might be a very expensive non-answer. Any recommendations on good people to go to (preferably city/south/southeast suburbs of Mebourne) would be welcome.

Any feedback on experiences with A.G. and/or MTQ too please?

Thanks in advance.
Chris
 

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hi all - first post so pls excuse any dumb questions!

I've got a July 2003 auto 3l which has done 12Ok. Over last 6 months or so fuel consumption has worsened and around town (which it does far too much of!) I'm usually getting 17-19 l/100 compared to the 13-15 it used to return.

I know there is not much that can be adjusted on the ZD 30 but I'm getting conflicting advice about best way to to identify/fix what may be causing problems.

A.G. Diesel in Clayton say at 100-120k the injectors & filter should be replaced (=big $). Not sure how they go about deciding if that is the problem though - only answer was 'we can dyno it' but they really seemed keen on replacing the injectors irrespective.
The Patrol 'guru' at a Nissan dealer said that for a car that does a lot of city/short trips etc he would first try using a fuel system cleaner like BG Liquitech (which I couldn't find much info on by googling). Apart from replacing all the filters he also suggested replacing the MAF - he thought they were only about $100? He also recommended taking it to MTQ Diesel in Dandenong (or AG Diesel) but said in his experience replacing injectors @ 100k was pretty rare!

Other possibilities suggested were a cracked intercooler - it seems to be running Ok so how can you identify that - or a worn injector pump - ditto.

I don't mind spending the necessary to get it running right but just worried that changing injectors might be a very expensive non-answer. Any recommendations on good people to go to (preferably city/south/southeast suburbs of Mebourne) would be welcome.

Any feedback on experiences with A.G. and/or MTQ too please?

Thanks in advance.
Chris
I'd start with the basics. Filter replacement. Then run a few tanks of fuel through with Chemtech Diesel Power in it to clean an degum. Buy a can of MAF cleaner ($24 at Supercrap)and pull the MAF out for a good clean. Clean it first and see how you go. Replacements cost close to $300. Contact Nizzbits on here if you do need one. Visually check the intercooler for rubbing wear points and for excess oil being blown out anywhere. You could also pull it off as its due a clean out and when off fill block one end and fill it with water to see if it runs out anywhere it shouldn't. I've done all the above on a 90k truck. I found the biggest improvement from cleaning the MAF.

I can't tell you much about worn injector pumps only its a very expensive repair or replacement. So eliminate the cheaper issues first. If you need to replace the intercooler. Put the money into a higher performing after market one.

Grogey
 

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If it's not blowing smoke, ie just about all the time, then the injectors and fuel pumps are likely OK. The high pressure injectors should last a lot longer than 120K. The fuel filter does need to be changed regularly, so do this first. The MAF definitely needs to be looked at, as it's a fairly common item to get dirty and then start to affect performance etc. Adding some fuel conditioner will also help to clean the system. Don't listen to AG until you've done some basic things first.

Cheers

Ray
 

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If it's not blowing smoke, ie just about all the time, then the injectors and fuel pumps are likely OK. The high pressure injectors should last a lot longer than 120K. The fuel filter does need to be changed regularly, so do this first. The MAF definitely needs to be looked at, as it's a fairly common item to get dirty and then start to affect performance etc. Adding some fuel conditioner will also help to clean the system. Don't listen to AG until you've done some basic things first.

Cheers

Ray
^^^ x 2 What he said
 

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hi all - first post so pls excuse any dumb questions!

I've got a July 2003 auto 3l which has done 12Ok. Over last 6 months or so fuel consumption has worsened and around town (which it does far too much of!) I'm usually getting 17-19 l/100 compared to the 13-15 it used to return.

Hi, had a similar problem, increase in fuel consumption.

Wife uses Patrol as Grannies Chariot, so was subjected to short low speed school pick up and drop offs.

Did all the normal filters, clean MAF etc etc .... found the catalytic converter to be restricted due to exhaust crap..

Fixed this and consumption returned to 'normal'.

Mates Patrol had brakes replaced and Service Centre didn't clean and relube the calipre centering slides. Pads were dragging on the disc which 'horsed' his fuel consumption around a bit.

My 2 bobs worth
 

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hi all - first post so pls excuse any dumb questions!

I've got a July 2003 auto 3l which has done 12Ok. Over last 6 months or so fuel consumption has worsened and around town (which it does far too much of!) I'm usually getting 17-19 l/100 compared to the 13-15 it used to return.

Hi, had a similar problem, increase in fuel consumption.

Wife uses Patrol as Grannies Chariot, so was subjected to short low speed school pick up and drop offs.

Did all the normal filters, clean MAF etc etc .... found the catalytic converter to be restricted due to exhaust crap..

Fixed this and consumption returned to 'normal'.

Mates Patrol had brakes replaced and Service Centre didn't clean and relube the calipre centering slides. Pads were dragging on the disc which 'horsed' his fuel consumption around a bit.

My 2 bobs worth
Did you replace the cat or can they be cleaned?
Cheers
 

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hi all - first post so pls excuse any dumb questions!

I've got a July 2003 auto 3l which has done 12Ok. Over last 6 months or so fuel consumption has worsened and around town (which it does far too much of!) I'm usually getting 17-19 l/100 compared to the 13-15 it used to return.

I know there is not much that can be adjusted on the ZD 30 but I'm getting conflicting advice about best way to to identify/fix what may be causing problems.

A.G. Diesel in Clayton say at 100-120k the injectors & filter should be replaced (=big $). Not sure how they go about deciding if that is the problem though - only answer was 'we can dyno it' but they really seemed keen on replacing the injectors irrespective.
The Patrol 'guru' at a Nissan dealer said that for a car that does a lot of city/short trips etc he would first try using a fuel system cleaner like BG Liquitech (which I couldn't find much info on by googling). Apart from replacing all the filters he also suggested replacing the MAF - he thought they were only about $100? He also recommended taking it to MTQ Diesel in Dandenong (or AG Diesel) but said in his experience replacing injectors @ 100k was pretty rare!

Other possibilities suggested were a cracked intercooler - it seems to be running Ok so how can you identify that - or a worn injector pump - ditto.

I don't mind spending the necessary to get it running right but just worried that changing injectors might be a very expensive non-answer. Any recommendations on good people to go to (preferably city/south/southeast suburbs of Mebourne) would be welcome.

Any feedback on experiences with A.G. and/or MTQ too please?

Thanks in advance.
Chris
At 145ks my ic wore through where the bonnet scoop above rubbed through it. PITA
Check out crosscountry's if it has, cheers
 

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Funny that i now have the same issue. took my maf out last week and it was dirty as needed a good clean so i got the contact cleaner out cleaned it all up and stuck it back in.. car was running fine before was getting around 400km per half of a tank awhile back but i had noticed that it had dropped slightly and i was only getting around 350km to half a tank so i decided to check the maf and yeah it was dirty so i cleaned it.. didn't notice much of a change in the fuel consumption. But i filled up yesterday afternoon and drove home aroun 73km and and then headed back down this morning to work. and i have gotten around 115km to a quater of a tank.. so now it's worse then it was before... this has got me stumped. i'm going to do an oil change soon and also replace the air filter and my oil filter was only replaced around 4000km ago. so that should be fine. haven't changed my fuel filter though. might change that and get some fuel cleaner.

any ideas on why it's gotten so bad would be helpful.

cheers
 

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Butterz, you say only getting 350- 400 per tank, is that sub tank only- what engine fo you have. I'm getting 900klms from both tanks, not driving slow either.

Silly me butterz, re read post, do a full tank run and see what you get, like any vehicle less in tank, more appear to use.

Camperchris, have you done any if the recommended mods as yet, definately change filters, fuel, oil, clean maf, clean out intercooler. I have 190k on my 03 and still no injectors done.
 

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yeah i used to see around 1000km to both the main and sub tank when run nearly dry, last full tank run i did i got around 700km to the main where i would usually get 800km so hopefully but with the way this run is going so far i will be lucky to see 500km to the main tank. :headwall:

mind you i did take the maf out clean it and put it back in without resetting the ecu.. is the really needed? i guess it would explain why the fuel is being used it thinks their is way too much air coming in and so compensates by adding fuel.

i have noticed that my Egt's have been higher then normal. used to see maybe 200 - 250 at 15psi cruising on the highway and only ever hit 400c heading up really steep hills at around 11-13psi but also as of late the max i seem to get before the vanes open on the turbo is around 13psi and so my temps have been sitting around 250-300c on the highway at 110kmph and when i climb slight hills i have been seeing 350-380 and climbing a high hill yesterday i saw 420c so the temps are higher aswell. unsure but maybe the extra fuel being used is causing this issue due to more fuel being burnt causing higher egt's. think i might need to ajust the screw on the actuator again to allow higher boost.

well just got home at 6 and have now done 196km and used a quater and a half of the main tank :/
 

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yeah i used to see around 1000km to both the main and sub tank when run nearly dry, last full tank run i did i got around 700km to the main where i would usually get 800km so hopefully but with the way this run is going so far i will be lucky to see 500km to the main tank. :headwall:

mind you i did take the maf out clean it and put it back in without resetting the ecu.. is the really needed? i guess it would explain why the fuel is being used it thinks their is way too much air coming in and so compensates by adding fuel.

i have noticed that my Egt's have been higher then normal. used to see maybe 200 - 250 at 15psi cruising on the highway and only ever hit 400c heading up really steep hills at around 11-13psi but also as of late the max i seem to get before the vanes open on the turbo is around 13psi and so my temps have been sitting around 250-300c on the highway at 110kmph and when i climb slight hills i have been seeing 350-380 and climbing a high hill yesterday i saw 420c so the temps are higher aswell. unsure but maybe the extra fuel being used is causing this issue due to more fuel being burnt causing higher egt's. think i might need to ajust the screw on the actuator again to allow higher boost.

well just got home at 6 and have now done 196km and used a quater and a half of the main tank :/
Gday Butterz, a dirty air filter or partially blocked inlet to the turbo will increase the fuel consumption so that may be worth a look.

Also, check the MAF voltages per post 5 of this thread to ensure the MAF is working correctly. If it seem that it is not, you may want to block the EGR and try the test again as a faulty EGR system will alter the MAF readings and also give you bad fuel economy.

Next on the list would be to check the hoses and aftercooler for leaks since you seem to be down on boost.

Let us know what you find.

Cheers,
Whitie
 

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well today i got to work on the troll took off the intercooler and all the intake piping. cleaned it all out, changed the air filter and the fuel filter and cleaned the maf again. haven't really been able to test it all as of yet as i wont be driving far till monday.

Whitie: i have my egr blocked had it blocked for ages now, when i did block the egr i got a lot higher boost so i ajusted the vnt screw to suit and that was in may this year.

It has been driving great since and making ok boost levels like i said around 15psi cruising on the highway. usually i would see around 17 or more at 110km without ajusting it. but i have noticed today after driving it around that it seems the issue i have is that when i put my foot down not hard or anything just normal acceleration i change gears around 2,000 - 2,500rpm that i am only seeing around 9psi if that. so i ajusted the vnt down again although can't remember last time which way i went haha. trial and error in looking for higher boost. but what i have noticed is that i can make higher boost if i put my foot just touching the pedal. the vanes stay closed and it allows it to spool to around 14psi at 2,500. but if i try normal acceleration is just opens the vanes to a degree and doesn't allow the boost to climb to the usual 17psi before opening up and making a tonne of noise and less boost. but now it seems it's happening all the time and not staying closed. :(

i used to see around 13psi at 2,500 and like 17psi at 3,000rpm after egr block, after i ajusted the screw i saw 12psi at 2,500 around 15psi 3,000 but at the moment i see around 13psi at 3,000rpm and around 8-9psi at 2,500, my egts are higher and i can tell the vains are open to a degree cause it's a lot louder then it used to be.

any ideas? haha
 
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well today i got to work on the troll took off the intercooler and all the intake piping. cleaned it all out, changed the air filter and the fuel filter and cleaned the maf again. haven't really been able to test it all as of yet as i wont be driving far till monday.

Whitie: i have my egr blocked had it blocked for ages now, when i did block the egr i got a lot higher boost so i ajusted the vnt screw to suit and that was in may this year.

It has been driving great since and making ok boost levels like i said around 15psi cruising on the highway. usually i would see around 17 or more at 110km without ajusting it. but i have noticed today after driving it around that it seems the issue i have is that when i put my foot down not hard or anything just normal acceleration i change gears around 2,000 - 2,500rpm that i am only seeing around 9psi if that. so i ajusted the vnt down again although can't remember last time which way i went haha. trial and error in looking for higher boost. but what i have noticed is that i can make higher boost if i put my foot just touching the pedal. the vanes stay closed and it allows it to spool to around 14psi at 2,500. but if i try normal acceleration is just opens the vanes to a degree and doesn't allow the boost to climb to the usual 17psi before opening up and making a tonne of noise and less boost. but now it seems it's happening all the time and not staying closed. :(

i used to see around 13psi at 2,500 and like 17psi at 3,000rpm after egr block, after i ajusted the screw i saw 12psi at 2,500 around 15psi 3,000 but at the moment i see around 13psi at 3,000rpm and around 8-9psi at 2,500, my egts are higher and i can tell the vains are open to a degree cause it's a lot louder then it used to be.

any ideas? haha
Seems to be pointing towards either a leak after the turbo or a drop in the vacuum that is reaching the VNT. You need a vacuum gauge to see what is going on there...

Another useful tool is Newkleers LCD which amongs many things it displays (MAF, coolant temp etc.) it also displays the % that the ECU is opening the VNT vacuum solenoid for so with a vacuum meter, you can check the before and after vacuum solenoid readings and ascertain if there is a leak in the solenoid itself.

You will need the help of a vacuum meter that reads to 30Hg to help pin point this one :(

Cheers,
Whitie
 

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this is a very convenient device, I should such a device, and I'm always in control
pressure turbo, MAF voltage, and much more
You can determine what broke or МAF or no pressure
 

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High fuel usage 0n my new 2015 3.0l y61 patrol

Hi All
I would love some help and advice on the high fuel usage on my new patrol y61 3.0l.
I bort the 4x4 in August 2016 new from the showroom and since i v had it, it uses 19/20 ltrs per 100km on the road and also on the dyno. Iv had a dyno report when I took the car into Nissan for its 1000km service and they told me thats normal as the car is heavily weight down with a tow-bar,bull-bar and winch that mind you was fitted to the car as part of the new car package called the n-trec pack.

On the main tank that is only 95 ltrs I get 600 km then the fuel light comes on then I need to switch to the sub tank before I run out of fuel.

Can anyone give me some help please in fixing this problem Nissan don t seem to care about it ,they got there money.

Thomastown diesel turbos pty ltd done some great work dynoing my car and writing a report that Nissan ignored. Thanks guys.

Regards John F
[email protected]
 

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there is a few questions we need to ask you, what size tires are you running, is the the engine stock (ie a bigger exhaust system may help), If you have roofracks that add aprox 1 lph. if you havhe bigger tires it 285 uses a bout 1 litre more then 315 uses aprox 2 litres more then stock. how much weight do you carry in the 4x4. have a look through the fourm there are a few plp with the same experince, I think 1 eaven changed his injector and ecu for his crd.
 

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We hear all sides of the CRD from 10L/100 to what you are getting, it doesn't make sense but that is fact. What did the Dyno mob say was the cause?

This particular thread relates to the DI, which has a much better reputation for good fuel eco and bad ones are actually rare and specifically have some sort of problem not so with the CRD (which I assume you mean you bought in 2015, not 2016 as it says), they can be quite erratic as you will read in what I have attached.

This is the CRD thread about bad fuel eco:

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/zd30...crd-bad-fuel-economy-discussion-thread-61827/
 

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Hi unko84

My car is stock out of the factory wheels tyre every thing stock,it has use alot of fuel since day one.
The dyno report states that its using 19-20 ltrs per 100km. 600 kms per 95 ltr fuel (full main tank only) A/F 16.6 - 17.9 I was told it should be adleaset 25:1 or leaner.
Turbo boost is 1.7 i was told it should be adleast 16-18 PSI.

Max power @ 100kmh is 70KW dont know if that normal.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Hi unko84

My car is stock out of the factory wheels tyre every thing stock,it has use alot of fuel since day one.
The dyno report states that its using 19-20 ltrs per 100km. 600 kms per 95 ltr fuel (full main tank only) A/F 16.6 - 17.9 I was told it should be adleaset 25:1 or leaner.
Turbo boost is 1.7 i was told it should be adleast 16-18 PSI.

Max power @ 100kmh is 70KW dont know if that normal.
18-20 AFR is good for power/eco balance, 25 is going to leave you wanting a bit more grunt, so I strongly disagree with their "at least" 25-1, this will have you using more accelerator to achieve x.

70Kw is also about average for a stocky. 74Kw is 100Hp and they seem to average between 80Hp to 100Hp for a good one.

14-15psi is about average for a stocky, it will fluctuate a bit though on stock boost control.
 
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