very nice

although i went one step further and fitted my factory flares back onto the bunnings flares then bogged and sanded , bogged and sanded bogged and sanded etc etc etc...

all the wheels are covered now and with the flares sitting lower , it doesnt look like it is lfted so much

 

It's a ford not a nissan, that looks like it is straight from the factory. One question though, will the bog crack due to the flares being plastic?

 

i used that fiber glass bog so it is a bit stronger than normal bog , but yeah , if i hit them hard enough they would crack , but the plan is to fit some scrub bars to help protect the front and when i build the rear bar i will fit scrub bars to the rear wheels aswell

saying that , they are pretty solid and should handle most knocks without breaking

 

in the last pic, i am aprox 5MM off bumpstop, not sure of how much droop is left on other side, with no lift, and my 33"Bighorns on. very very happy with that.


cheers for reading all
enjoy

jbates58

Thats in a carpark, if you take your car on a dirt road or off road section in wet the poor garden strip will be required to cut all the mud off the tyre at that clearance, let alone the actual body of the car.

It dumps way too low, and will probably dump lower when moving.

 

When drilling the screws into the body did either of you do anything to stop the screw holes from rusting when they get wet?

 

yeah mate, i have repainted above the arch, and i have dipped all the screws in tecktil (spelling), so that shuld prevent it from rusting.

cheers

jbates58

 

i did repaint it but when the screw goes back in it would have just taken the paint back off

 

If anyone in Adelaide does this.. get the edging off me at work.. alot cheaper haha

Nice mod there.. also nice work on yours Its a Ford...

 

If anyone in Adelaide does this.. get the edging off me at work.. alot cheaper haha

Nice mod there.. also nice work on yours Its a Ford...

ha mate just wondering if you can still get the edging bit late on sceen i know but worth a shot, cheers

 

Awesome work, I used stair edging on mine (well the rears) and it does not look anywhere near as good as that I'm thinking i'm off to Bunnings this week to grab some of that lawn edging to redo mine now.

 

It'sa
hows the elbows feeling now bet you wore a few years out of them
how much gain do you think you have got over the factory size flare bit hard to tell from pics

Cheers tassie

 

i actually used an orbital sander and varying grades of sand paper , i wouldnt have even attempted to do it by hand , its only about 20 to 30mm wider but it is enough so the boys in blue dont pick me for tyres sticking out past the flares , plus added a bit so they are a bit more nicley rounded and not sagging in the middle , i could have gone wider easy enough but there was no need for what i wanted to achieve , i basicly wanted to keep it looking factory so it doesnt stand out too much

 

Im looking for stock standard 95' GQ Patrol rear flares (wouldnt mind some front ones), where can i find some.....my local wrecker has nothing.

 

ahh mate, that's brilliant, looks great. Can't stop laughing - ingenious use of lawn edging!

 

such a neat idea and cheap, ive done the same to my mq

 

well i know where i'm off to this weekend. bunnings here i come.

 

How do you recon it would go using rivets instead of screws?

 

not sure mate, i reckon screws are better, as i have replaced 2 front guards on my truck, just unscrew it, and screw it back in.

 

How'd ya go making it all tight? was it much effort? Also, did you pre-drill the holes in the flare then just use the screw to cut the whole in the guard? Seems like it might be the easiest way.

 

self tapping screws are awsome for this

 

self tapping screws are awesome for anything.

 

Why not just use stainless screw instead of paintint, dipping...etc?

 

I'm wasn't thinking of using rivets for rust prevention, could give two hoots about rust, this 4b will be dead in another two years anyway that way I treat it... I just thought it might be easier to pre-drill the holes in both the guard and the flare. But I'll just use self tapping screws now I recon.... Ones with a big flat head seem to be the go I recon.

 

looks good ive done this on my troll. i used the rubber strip from the factory flares that way you dont see the raised bits on the top side of the flares where the screws go in and paint the heads of the screws matte black so thay dont stand out looks a littel neater .

cheap mod but.

 

Use roofing teks. Zinc ones. No rust.

 

Thats what i used when I had the GQ

 

Did you have any trouble though with the heads popping down 5mm?

 

I used self tapping screws on mine so they can be removed easily used a paint can to get a good curve on the ends and cut it with a 4" grinder have removed the passenger side a couple of times to fit snorkle and bolt other things to the inner guard glad I didn't use riverts

 

Hers another option.
Bought garden edgeing from Mitre 10, $20 for ten metres.
Is about 5mm think.
Then used old factory flares to line up holes and used origanl screws from factory plastic flares. No need for extra drilling in guard. Was a bit hard to line holes up but just careful planning and double checking before drilling. Can use one side once finished to be jig for other, just drill on other side of Garden egdeing
Did this after breaking all the mounts from front flare.
Only complaint is they are very hard but have hit one on a bank and just pulled plastic from screw, no damage to body at all, plus flare just needs to be unscrewed and screwed back in.

 

Sweet option! I can't find any of the 'Big' 4WD stores to sell replacement flares so I really like this option. Unfortunately I can't seem to find any of the mentioned items on-line - not Bunnings, not Clarke Rubber. Perhaps I have missed the boat ... Will keep trying...

Just a note - Midalia sell powder-coated pop rivets and they don't cost a lot and would prevent localised corrosion! 1000 = $40

Cheers :angel: