I am yet to do mine, but i think i read somewhere on here to replace the underlay with rubber from clarke rubber

 

easy job. a couple of hours at worst.

Take out the seats and console out of the front and the back seats.

The first time i did mine was maybe 7 or eight years ago so forgive me if the next bit is not quite right...

Mine is cut across the car under the middle of the front seats and console making it very easy to deal with, I cant remember if i did this the first time or it was like that from nissan?? regardless if yours is in one piece cut it here for much much easier removal and replacement.

i had to cut around the rear hold down brackets for the rear seats rather than removing them and that is NO BIG DEAL.

Dont be afraid to use a knife where necessary but be neat and gentle and it will look like factory fit when you are done.

I have had mine out since a dozen times or more and taking the opportunity to give it a good clean while out and it still looks great.

To this day i still run the original factory underlay and just dry it out when necessary.

I had a mate who replaced the carpet of ebay and the new carpet was moulded but no cuts and was a bitch to fit in. Allot of work to get the holes in the right spot blind through the new carpet.

During the latest buildup i have taken the opportunity to give the floor a good clean and put 4 or 5 coats (10lt) of bitumen paint on the floor under the carpet and should be great for noise and insulation. I painted the inside of the outside of every door with this stuff too.

Good time to run any wires to the back that you may need and if you have an onboard compressor then do yourself a favour and run airline from it to the side of the car under the drive and passenger seats for air ups. very handy and a bonus under the carpet.

Good luck mate. Too Easy.

 

Cheers for the advice mudrunner, ill go give it a crack now.....

 

I did mine recently and removed all seats, centre console you will find the odd screw here and there. You will also need to remove the plastic bits where each door is.

 

Have you thought of replacing your carpet with something more mud friendly? Here's a link to what I've done to my (sorry not a Patrol!) Delica:
http://www.delica.ca/forum/new-flooring-3243.html?highlight=flooring

I simply hate carpet in both my trucks and even at home so I get rid of it asap. Those things keep nasty smell and trap water... rust... yuk!

I've used a heavy rubber style material that is waterproof and easy to clean. Wouldn't go back to carpet... Seems like my Safari is on it's way from Japan this week, same surgery will be happening to this one!

Cheers,
David

 

If replacing the seats without the original carpet (or leaving it out) be aware that the carpet has spacers in it for the seat bolts. Without these spacers, the seats wont bolt up properly and you risk damaging the mounts. Also, when replacig the seat bolts do them up by hand all the way down before using a wrench. If one wont go down, you probably have a cross thread or misaligned bracketary. Being Metric fine bolts it is very easy to cross thread them and the resulting damage to the bolt and nut is difficult to repair.

 

mine wasnt too wet...but i just pulled all the door trims off and pulled all the underlay out and threw it in the bin then just jammed some stuff under the carpet so it would sit up nice and high and keft it in the sun for a few hours and it was dry as... unless its really bad i wouldnt bother with the seats and console...

 

Take a chance to seal up your floorpan and fix any rust issues.

My GQ had beautifully water tight doors but the holes and seams in the floorpan just allowed the water to come on in unobstructed. Sikaflex for the win.

 

Great tip Yom. So whats the favourite product to rustproof the floorpan with ? I used Hammerite.

 

Did same thing few hours work,but before i put it back i lined the floor with
foam/insulation.Its sticky backed and does not hold water. It also helped with noise and heat
from turbo/exhaust.

Cheers Ian.

 

Cheers for all of the replies guys. Well i pulled everything out last night, and now there is only one drivers seat in there atm

Going to pressure wash the carpets tonight and get rid of the underlay. Next step will be to seal up all of the floor using sika or silicone. I need to do a bit of sealing around the gearstick cos thats where most of the water was coming in...... :S

Its just a interesting time trying to get carpet to dry up here atm.....

 

if you are getting water in around the gearstick regularly you're going to have to just not have carpet installed lol

 

Yeah i know, ive thought about that

But it should be ok, because last time i had the rubber boot off it wasnt put back on properly. So if i put it in the right position, run a silicone bead and put a couple more screws in it should be all good

 

I had the same problem...water getting in around the gearshift boots.
I got some butynol about 500mm square, cut gearshift slots etc into it and sat it over the top of the transmission tunnel with heaps of proper glue and then sealed it. Then I sealed the transfer/gearshift boots on top of that as well. So far so good.

Just a point, if you are taking all that out then check the rubber boot at the base of the gearbox shift stick for splits etc...it's a good time to replace it :ahah:

 

did mine a few weeks ago.. couple of hours pulling carpet up, cleaned everything.. took the carpet to the Car wash and blasted it. smelt nice to. was going to put some of that underlay in from Clarke rubber but sore how much it was and i wanted it pretty think to insolate it and was very pricey. so just used the original and hope it wont really happen again lol.

and was a great time to run some spare cables.. i just ran 3x Fig8s to the back and 3 to the center console area just incase if i ever want power around there.

 

I got water in mine before chrissy. Pulled all the carpet and found several of the rubber grommets were not sitting properly. So I removed and sealed every floor plug with sika.

Before I got the water in I had sealed all my door trim rubbers with sika and that worked well, but water still got in through the sill panels and tracked in through the base of the windscreen pillar and from under the scuff plates along each sill.

I have covered any spare holes using plastic ice cream container cut offs and sika flex. Have a look down through the large holes in the top of the each sill panel and you will be able to see the road through the sill drain holes. And these are on the inside of where the door rubber seals.

All I need to do next is replaced the broken plugs that the scuff plates screw into and seal them. Hopefully I wont get as much water in as last time but i dont think you will totally eliminate it all.

cheers.

 

Dont cover the drain holes - they are there for a reason. You may find the body cavities fill will rain water now !

 

Dont cover the drain holes - they are there for a reason. You may find the body cavities fill will rain water now !

Haven't sealed the drain holes just the holes that would allow water into the cab through the sills. Sealing the drain holes would run the risk of rust forming.

cheers