[skegbudley]

As Geeyoutoo suggested. Download the manual from here. A paper version will help too.
Ok you have got this far. Heaps to do still.

Drop the coolant next. Remove everything from ally bend running from top of head up to the radiator. This includes fan. You will find lots of bits to clean whilst that is off. [emoji6]
Unbolt hard coolant lines from exhaust side of head and move out of the way or remove.
Unbolt injector return line from side of head.
Unbolt vacuum and electrical from front of engine.
Remove rocker cover.
Remove vacuum pump.
Remove power steering pump and tie up out of the way.
Remove oil return line from back of head. Be prepared to meet the 2 Cody bolts. Named after one of my mate's ex bitch girlfriends. These 2 are amongst the nastiest bolts you will ever have to remove.
Remove noise shield from front of engine taking note of where the crank angle sensor cable runs prior to unplugging.
Remove front engine cover and thoroughly clean all sealant off it.
Remove glowplugs.
Rotate crankshaft until engine is at TDC and C & CC on injector pump and idler gear line up. Lock chain tensioner with drill bit or suitable rod and remove chain.
Remove fuel return line and injectors.
Remove camshaft bolts gradually in the reverse order of tensioning.
Remove the long bolts at the front of the engine that go through the timing cover into the head.
Unbolt the head.
Inspect the damage.
Have a rum. You deserve one now.

I like shiny stuff

 

[skegbudley]

Like my story the head cracked in 3 places due to a hose bursting on the rear of engine EGR.
It seems opting for an exchange engine in a situation like this isn't a bad idea.

You need to factor in the cost of a head, gaskets,labour, if you do it yourself your own time at it etc etc...then if the engine was getting hot what else could be damaged down the road.Also YES you can get heads online cheap ish but be sure it's a full head with valves etc and guides as changing your own stuff over is not the done thing.A bare head can be had cheap but is that option worth it. What will you pay for a complete head? A LOT i would guess.

Exchange fully rebuilt units these days arn't so expensive.

I guess if it's just the head and you are sure it didn't ever over heat too bad then go for it.

A bare head vs a fully built one really depends on whether you have been trained to build them or not. I really enjoyed teaching my boys how to lap valves and set it up. It was also the first time in about 25 years that my head building tools had seen daylight. I fully agree that its its not something that you should attenpt with limited mechanical skills. My next one will be bare too. Primary reason is that a mate of mine who did his apprenticeship at Superflow Heads wants to improve it's flow for me. He's already done the research on the ZD's head and even cut up a head up to get a better picture of the limitations of the factory design. He was away on holidays when I cracked the first one and was disappointed he didn't get to do mine then.

I like shiny stuff

 

[skegbudley]

At the bottom right hand corner of the injector pump drive gear where it mates up to the idler gear. C is on the injector pump drive gear. CC is on the idler gear. Keep rotating engine by turning the crankshaft bolt until they line up as in my pic. This can take up to 40 rotations of the crankshaft. At the same time as doing this you need to look at the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley so you can stop rotating when it lines up at the same time. Easy to check #1 piston is at the top by inserting a chopstick down the glowplug holes. The 2 front camshaft lobes will also be facing the drivers side of the engine bay at this point. Something you need to get right when putting it back together.

I like shiny stuff