Hi everybody, having trouble on long pulls with caravan on ,Turbo running at 525 max with foot to floor and temp gauge soon follows up to 95 if I do not back of throttle, once over the pull it seems to cool down o.k, tried dropping a gear but made no difference. Changed to 2 thermo elect fans but made it worse as it takes longer to cool and does not seem to ram cool as good, had radiator checked and told it was clean, pyrometer indicates that its not overfueling, thermostat seems ok but can anybody tell me how long does a water pump last or how can I check it flow especially at high rev, have locked up fan hub and considering putting back on. Would appreciate any hints before spending more dollars :driving:1990 Maverick still going strong (or was)
Pommy
if the temp is only getting to 95 deg i wouldnt worry about it , the td42 will run all day at that temp . i actually run a 91 deg thermostat and the motor seems to like it , this also reduced wide fluctuations (sp) in the temp when driving up big hills or pushing it hard
i would just use the standard clutch fan ( not locked ) if towing a caravan
i would just use the standard clutch fan ( not locked ) if towing a caravan
I run mine at 95 to 100 degrees coolant temp and 560 degrees EGT.
I burn through about 250 litres of diesel a day doing this.
It doesnt hurt it at all. Just keep driving it.
I burn through about 250 litres of diesel a day doing this.
It doesnt hurt it at all. Just keep driving it.
As long as you are running coolant, you should be perfectly fine to run it up to 110 - 120 degrees depending on the coolant. Coolant increases the boiling point of your cooling fluid.
It is also possible you are running too much fuel. Try increasing your boost.
As for the water pump, just look at the fins and the head around where the impeller spins, make sure all look ok, no pit marks etc that could make the water pump work less efficiently. And don't lock up your fan, you have an issue somewhere else, solve that. I run 25 PSI and have EGT's that I can make go over 700 without a whole lot of effort (yes I know, 2 much fuel, but i don't want to put in more boost lol it already sounds a bit sad in the bottom end lol) but my engine cooling works perfectly, takes a fair bit of driving on boost to get the temp even up to half.
It is also possible you are running too much fuel. Try increasing your boost.
As for the water pump, just look at the fins and the head around where the impeller spins, make sure all look ok, no pit marks etc that could make the water pump work less efficiently. And don't lock up your fan, you have an issue somewhere else, solve that. I run 25 PSI and have EGT's that I can make go over 700 without a whole lot of effort (yes I know, 2 much fuel, but i don't want to put in more boost lol it already sounds a bit sad in the bottom end lol) but my engine cooling works perfectly, takes a fair bit of driving on boost to get the temp even up to half.
Oh, and when I first bought the car, it had a DTS turbo kit on it, 12psi, and normal running temp was on the low mark, and it took 3/4 of an hour of uphill on boost driving up mt terrible from the big river road for it to get to even 3/4.
Noisy and sucks power, and if you go through any water/mudholes etc, there is nothing to "give" and you will demolish your fan blades.
Seems to be a lot of discussion on heating issues with the 4.2. Some people have no issues at all with standard equipment, and yet others go crazy trying to find the problem.
The obvious solution to me seems to be a radiator with cooling capacity above standard unit, yet this is not often mentioned as far as I can see.
With a turbo engine there are a number of other factors as well, thermostat included, but how come radiator swaps are not the answer?
I have read that Chevy diesels have heating issues not related to the radiator, but other parts of the cooling system, such as water jacket and water pump design. Is the 4.2 the same?
Or are most of us worried about it because the factory gauge is not as good as it could be?
The obvious solution to me seems to be a radiator with cooling capacity above standard unit, yet this is not often mentioned as far as I can see.
With a turbo engine there are a number of other factors as well, thermostat included, but how come radiator swaps are not the answer?
I have read that Chevy diesels have heating issues not related to the radiator, but other parts of the cooling system, such as water jacket and water pump design. Is the 4.2 the same?
Or are most of us worried about it because the factory gauge is not as good as it could be?
Personally id'e go with the gauge,1/4 to 3/4 on a GQ is about 10 degrees(bugger all) But looking at the gauge you freak out, as i used to!! Mines been up past 3/4 after a long hill with a load and AC on! Dont get out to check anymore as when its been that high theres no bubbling,steam, boiling noise. Im'e on 300 thou. and still original radiator and W/pump,Still i change coolent start of summer and start of winter since new.
Airflow is another important consideration. Bullbars and lights will reduce it, so on my last two vehicles I added an air dam to the bar to pick up air from underneath and direct straight into the radiator core. This will not have an effect at rock crawling speeds, but on the open road it certainly does.
I'm having the same problem with my TD42, When i first bough the vehicle it was standard and overheated under load till i backed off the throttle, i only let it get to just over 3/4 but climbed rapidly until i back off.Changed thermostat, removed spotties and changed radiator to an oversized unit as i wanted to turbo it any way but only improved a little. Thought it was running rich? Fitted a denco turbo kit recently and had it tuned running 8.5psi on a dyno and again has improved slightly but the prob is still there, so now will change out my water pump and possibly temp sender and see how that goes.
I used to stress about Running up to 3/4 and a bit.
Fitted a VDO Mech guage.
And as said 1/4 is about 85 and 3/4 is 95.
With 110+ ish being the limit,i worry no longer.
Just drive it... If it gets to 105 then have a sniff around.
And if the temp goes down staight after the "long pull" or "that big hill"
then the system is working.
Cheers Ian.
Fitted a VDO Mech guage.
And as said 1/4 is about 85 and 3/4 is 95.
With 110+ ish being the limit,i worry no longer.
Just drive it... If it gets to 105 then have a sniff around.
And if the temp goes down staight after the "long pull" or "that big hill"
then the system is working.
Cheers Ian.
Yea hi my Gu ute gets hot on the hiway with the most slightes hill but is fine around town I have a denco turbo and denco water air intercooler witch is mounted in front of the radiator I am running 14 pis boost and it starts to increase temp around 350 400 on the EGTS and it pissing me off a bit and that's with no load on it as well I'm thinking its a air flow problem so thinking about puting the intercooler radiator on the head board. Befor I done all the mods I done work out longreach winton Qld and with tools on the back and drove back to the Sunshine Coast with no heating at all since I put the water intercooler on it I've had this problem I have had the standard radiator cleaned and washed and still did not solve the problem I have put a pwr radiator on it and it slowed it down but still gets hot can any 1 recommend what I should do last thing I want to do is sell the good old ute
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