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Wats the difference between the Consult and OBD II connector. Can you visually see the difference? I have a 2007 3.0 CRD Patrol. I am struggling to read faults from the ECU. When I try install a jump wire between IGN & CHK I have noticed that the CHK terminal is redundant. only the bottom left 4 terminals on the plug are used the 4 on the right are not being used.
There is no physical difference between the connectors, just the pinouts. To see the difference, you’ll have to check which pins have been used, but it’s easy enough knowing what vehicle you have. Your 2007 CRD Patrol is OBD compliant and uses the CAN protocol, so any CAN capable OBD reader can read your codes.
 
THanks Chaz,

So is it possible to get the error codes off the dash using a jump wire? I don't want to start sticking wires in there that'll cook the ECU. I followed the instuctions to (JUmp pins 1 & 8 ) extract the ABS fault codes off the same connector and that worked.
 
THanks Chaz,

So is it possible to get the error codes off the dash using a jump wire? I don't want to start sticking wires in there that'll cook the ECU. I followed the instuctions to (JUmp pins 1 & 8 ) extract the ABS fault codes off the same connector and that worked.
Sorry Jezza, I’m not sure.

All the work that I’ve done on a CRD has only been with a Scangauge. CAN protocol codes are different to Consult codes. There may be a way to extract them without a scan tool, but I’m not aware of it.

If you could get hold of s manual for the CRD it should have the method if there is one or someone else may know who is more familiar with the CRD and its diagnostic procedures.
 
thanks for the help Chaz. Looks like I am forced to go to NISSAN but it burns my butt that I have to pay $130 for a 5min job!!
Then it might pay to get hold of a Scan tool like ScangaugeII. It will cost a bit more, but then you should be able to do all you're own diagnostic testing.
 
Guys,

One stupid question, if the engine goes on fault, does it clear automatically when the
fault is corrected, or does it need to be reset? Say for example, a bad maf sensor, when
I replace the maf, do I need to reset the fault or will it reset by itself when the a new maf
is installed?

Thanks!!
 
Thanks for those. I also see that some have special "enhanced obd2" parameters for specific makes. I found one company that supports Nissan paramenters:

http://www.autoenginuity.com


Check out some of these parameters, looks pretty comprehensive:

http://www.autoenginuity.com/Nissan-All-Systems-List.html

Adam
Hi again, I know this has been going for some time now but I still have not found a simple answer to my question re the Flashing airbag light. It seems there is no simple way to jump the connector 16pin DDL1. I am only left with the last option and thats to purchase a scangauge. I have found this one on eBay has anyone had any luck with these?

N607 Scanner - Professional Diagnostic Tool for NISSAN / INFINITI

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e.../ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260629131152&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT
 
You might be better with the scangaugeII as it can be used to display additional readouts while driving and is small and compact. A lot of the people who have them have mounted them to the instrument cluster surround an have the boost value displayed along with 3 other gauge values. It also makes for a fairly good trip computer
 
3.0 CRD SRS Diagnostic Fault Codes

OK so, after many internet hours searching I have found that the fault codes can be read from the flashing airbag light.This is where I am stuck. Mine flashes 1 x long (3sec) then 7 x short then 7 x short and continues.... I have tried to reset it a few times but it always returns to Diagnostic mode.

This is off http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?autocom=blog&blogid=&showentry=31

and youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o0gBZpUq40

The SRS airbag light on the driver console can be used to read SRS specific trouble codes without the use of a OBDII or Consult device.

There are 2 modes of operation for the SRS indicator light, the normal every day one called "User Mode", and the more advanced "Diagnosis Mode".

Normally, the car always operates in Normal mode. That is to say, the light goes on for 7 seconds (if it doesn't, that's a fault code as well, or your lamp's burnt out) when the ignition is put to "ON", then one of these things can happen:


  1. The light turns off (indicating all is OK!) and at this point, you cannot go in "Diagnosis Mode" (that advanced mode is only available when there's an actual trouble code)
  2. The indicator stays on. Which means you should take cover because it indicates an airbag has deployed or a serious malfunction is occurring.
  3. or finally, the indicator blinks in 1/2 second pulses, indicating there are SRS fault codes to be read
If you did something like change to aftermarket seats, you will lose the side airbags in the seats, and this will trigger an error code.

To read the actual malfunction code while trying to fix the issue (not going to detail that part here), you have to put the vehicle in SRS "Diagnosis Mode". Again, this can ONLY be done if you have condition #3 listed above.

Follow these steps to go from "User Mode" to "Diagnosis Mode".


  1. Using the starter button, put the car to "ON" mode (without starting the car. Do not press the brake pedal).
  2. The SRS Light will light up for 7 seconds. As soon as the SRS light goes off, turn the car off (before the quick 1/2 second error blinks appear)
  3. Wait more than 3 seconds (count to 5!)
  4. Do step #1, #2 and #3 two more times (you must do it three times total)
  5. Put car to "ON"
At this point, if everything went right, you will now be in SRS "Diagnosis Mode". How to tell?

The SRS light will now light up for 7 seconds as usual, but then instead of blinking, it will either light up again for 3 seconds (A series code) or 2x 1.5 seconds (B series code) before flashing a 1/2 second error code and repeating again.

From that point on, your car will stay in SRS "Diagnosis Mode" until you clear all SRS error codes and turn the ignition off.

If there are still SRS error codes present when you shut the car off, it will come back in "Diagnosis Mode" whenever you put ignition to "ON". To get back to the regular "User Mode" without having to fix all the SRS errors, you must simply follow the same above steps #1 to #4 again, and the car will revert back to "User Mode".

Ok, so now you're in "Diagnosis Mode" where you get the initial 7 second SRS light followed by either a 3 second blink or 2x 1.5 second blink, then blink codes. All the codes will repeat sequentially so you should note them down (eg: 3 second light, 2 blinks, 3 second light, 5 blinks, 1.5 second light, 1.5 second light, 6 blinks, etc etc) . If you lose count, just turn the car off and then back to ON as it will stay in "Diagnosis Mode"

Here's the table for the blink codes that come after a 3 second blink:

0 blinks:
Self-diagnosis result is not deleted

  1. Front LH seat belt pre-tensioner
  2. Driver air bag module
  3. Front RH seat belt pre-tensioner
  4. N/A
  5. Occupant Classification System control unit
  6. Crash zone sensor
  7. Air bag diagnosis sensor unit
  8. Front passenger air bag module
  9. N/A
  10. N/A
  11. Front passenger air bag OFF indicator
If you've removed your OE seats with side airbags and need to check if the SRS error code is related to either passenger or driver side module, the following series of blink codes associated with the 2x 1.5 second SRS light are the ones to look for ( #1 and #2):

Here's the table for the blink codes that come after 2x 1.5 second blink:


  1. Front RH side air bag module
  2. Front LH side air bag module
  3. RH satellite sensor
  4. LH satellite sensor
  5. RH side curtain air bag module
  6. LH side curtain air bag module
If you're troubleshooting an error code and think it has gone away, you can turn the ignition off and back to "ON" to reread the diagnosis codes. If you happen to clear all the codes and turn the ignition Off, the car will AUTOMATICALLY go back to "User Mode" since there are no more user codes.

This is where I am stuck. Mine flashes 1 x long (3sec) then 7 x short then 7 x short and continues....


 
For everyone's info, the 4.8's aren't OBDII even though they have the standard shaped OBDII connector. They are still Consult which is Nissans own version of OBDII. The basicaly made their own version that is proprietory. Even then I don't think Consult I works, only Consult II and III. You cannot use a generic OBD scan tool on the 4.8's. I'm pretty sure the 4.5's are the same too.
 
I am only left with the last option and thats to purchase a scangauge. I have found this one on eBay has anyone had any luck with these?
No you are not! All you need is to make OBDII compliant cable (keep in mind that all you really need is 2 wires) with USB to serial adapter or just serial adapter and than laptop with USB/Serial port and appropriate J1708/J1939 link scanning software. For simplicity reasons handheld diagnostics scanners are for the "grease monkeys". Choose your pill/poison carefully subject to your needs.
I'd go for a laptop and cable any day unfortunately mine is not OBDII compliant so I got ECUtalk software and the cable to go with it.
 
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