Just use a wireless power setup. Na I kid, I wish you could.

Run up a frame pillar and drill a hole where the door meets up near the seal. That's the only way I've seen it done.

 

I've seen a setup where the wire runs up the inside of the Snorkal from just outside the airbox to just below the head. Then it's Sikaflexed to the gutter to a small Anderson plug that Sika'd just above the gutter.

 

mount a big microwave transmitter and receiver.. you can cook supper in between.......

 

Same as Frosty.

 

Inside snorkel or between snorkel and A pillar then along gutter to a roof-rack leg is places I have seen wires run where guys dont want to drill body work.

 

buy a mk shorty and drill a hole in the fiberglass canopy

 

if you have a wagon what i did and still have it there is made a harness an run it up the inside of rear barn door useing the flat wire you can put plugs on it so you can take the lights on and off i have rear tail lights and spot lights on my ARB roof rack wired up like this hope this helps

 

No one's got pics ............

 

Run up the b-pilllar on either the drivers or passenger sides , drill small hole in the top that will suit a rubber grommet that will be a very tight for for your wires to pass through [ so it is waterproofed ] and into the coach work and you`re done .

Hope this helps .
Pulled it from my thread here http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11590&highlight=roof+lights
​

 

another way to bring power in Or Up!

Run up the b-pilllar on either the drivers or passenger sides , drill small hole in the top that will suit a rubber grommet that will be a very tight for for your wires to pass through [ so it is waterproofed ] and into the coach work and you`re done .

Hope this helps .
Pulled it from my thread here http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11590&highlight=roof+lights
​

Hi lowy44,
did the same as above , but did not have to drill any holes. keep the wires running down further and use cable tie holders until you reach the rubber boot that the door wires go through. using anything sharp you have to pop a small hole in the top of the boot and feed your wires through. then you can simply run them along the inside skirt to were you want.
I will take a pic and post it for you

 

Cheers Patrol King. Thanks for that. I think I'll go that way aswell.

 

pic show how I did it, Hope this helps!

here are the pics has promised

 

If it helps i ran mine up the snorkel tucked behind so you cant see it. The reason I did this as I didnt want to drill holes in the cabin.

 

I Ran mine up the rear door pillar between the back passenger door and the rear side window. No holes in the car at all. Just run the cable out from under the door seal then accross and up under the rubber window seal.

I've had no leaks at all and haven't had to destroy the car. just used a tiny amount of slaz to hold the cable in place, top and bottom.

Just ensure there is an in-line fuse as there is (albeit very unlikely) a chance the cable could wear at the point it comes out under the door seal.

 

if you have a snorkel go threw there i did

 

GU Bundy and Damo GU I can hear the dogs barking.... Ruff Ruff ... you`re obviously not in any of the electrical trades .
Hole in the rubbr boot = water in car oh and those sticky backs will eventually fall off ... why don`t u use some super glue to stick them on next time ....ruff ruff ruff
Wires running past any rubber door seal = water in car
Tiny hole drilled in top of b-pillar with rust proofing and tight grommet for wires to pass through = professional [ and only way to do the ] job


Sorry boys couldn`t resist having a dig.... .
​

 

Diggings good-

GU Bundy and Damo GU I can hear the dogs barking.... Ruff Ruff ... you`re obviously not in any of the electrical trades .
Hole in the rubbr boot = water in car oh and those sticky backs will eventually fall off ... why don`t u use some super glue to stick them on next time ....ruff ruff ruff
Wires running past any rubber door seal = water in car
Tiny hole drilled in top of b-pillar with rust proofing and tight grommet for wires to pass through = professional [ and only way to do the ] job


Sorry boys couldn`t resist having a dig.... .





​

No... No...Diggings Good! Lmao
However, the rubber boot is still water tight
Silicone has been applied to reseal the boot (no water gets in). Also, where the cable runs it does not affect the front door seal (no wind noise) and if the sticky things come off.... for $2.50 I get more... DILIGAF..... I have used these sticky things for years on my other 4x4's and they haven't failed.... remiss of me, not to put it in my original post. Oversight on my behalf. :headwall:

And finally for my dig..:angel:. you are a genius Patrol King, I am defiantly not an Auto Elec, rocket scientist, mechanic, upholsterer, cabinet maker, welder or fabricator, tool maker ect... ect... ect... but guess what? I have a go...! and most of the time it works good for me with no regrets. Sometimes I F#$@*up too , but I blame murphy for that hahaha

Not fazed how anyone else does it. As long as forum members are informed of how other people approach different circumstance and can make their own minds up!
Just happy to share and also learn. This forum has been of great help to me.

 

if you dont want to drill any holes you could run them out the bottom of the front of the door over the seal so its not a sharp bend, then make up little clips that go under the seal and run up the a pillar and across the top of the door and then jump onto the gutter.

going out the top of the door seal will leak water, but if the wires exit the door down low on the vertical part of the seal the water will flow with graverty. If you dont mind drilling holes then a hole in the b pillar with a gromet is best but im not keen on drilling holes.

Ive got a ute now so i dont have to worry about that. Either way who cares whats ruff and not, as long as you fuse it so if it shorts then big woop, all that happends is you lose your roof lights until you find the fault which is most likly going to be where it goes through the door. If had this setup for 3 years and havent broken a wire yet, if i have to replace the wiring every 3 years id rather do that then drill a hole in the pillar and worry about it rusting out. just remember, you can replace the bonnet, front quaters, boot, doors, but you can only repair the pillars and roof

 

Mate of mine is a pest/weed controller with a chitty old 60 series cruiser for his work. He has a roof rack with side work lights, rear worklights and a pair of orange beacon lights.

He has used trailer cable (7 core) and run it up the gap between the snorkel and A pillar. He has mounted a flat-style female trailer coupling onto the top of the snorkel head and then the wiring from all the lights comes along the roof rack and he has another piece of trailer wiring cable jumping the gap across to the back of the snorkel head and the male flat plug attached.

It's all quite neat and functional.

 

x a farkin billion

 

For reasons above theres no way i would drill holes in a place where everyone will see it. Especially possible futures buyer of the car. Oh yeah i do have an electrical trade just for arguments sake. I was thinking about running a wire through the seal on the top of one of the rear barn doors for a work light mounted on my roofrack. Havent tested it for water tightness but it will the first place a try.