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I repacked the King pin bearings this morning, Didnt pull any shims yet & nissan didnt have any as replacement :S

But there was sfa grease in them & what was there was RS. The bottom ones were the worst, & were both affected with water. Ive got some pics of the bearings ill upload later.

Just re-greasing has made a big difference. The steering is lighter, the way it used to be & the shimmy is much reduced on the FWY. Ill remove the shims on the drivers side as there is still noticeable wobble on that side. I can wobble the wheel when its off the ground so even tho nissan said they did them at the 80k service after only 3k they seem not right.

Id filled the bearings as per normal bearings then put a smudge inside the housing.

EDIT ---

Here is the Passenger side bottom bearing
Image

& the drivers side
Image



The car is 3.5years old & 83000k's
Dosent even look like Nissan have ever looked in there & they have done all but one service. Im worried that they didnt do the Front bearings @ the 80kk service
 
ddr, mine driver side replaced with new 0.254, spot on, but other side, i had 0.174 top &bot, still movement a bit. i may consider to change them to smaller or nil. what kind of grease did u put in? i just put on some wheel bearing grease. it that alright?
 
ddr, mine driver side replaced with new 0.254, spot on, but other side, i had 0.174 top &bot, still movement a bit. i may consider to change them to smaller or
nil.
There is a LOT of play on the drivers side & none on the passenger side, so If its still not great ill take the drivers out & see how that goes. I want to check the bearing now too but it looks a ***** of a job

?what kind of grease did u put in? i just put on some wheel bearing grease. it that alright?
Yeh just normal bearing grease, I cant remember what it was, castrol something.
 
You should call the dealer, and ask if it was done... Mention to them the bearings were dry... Watch the backpedaling!
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Snowflake,
It's definitely worth checking out a few things, cos there are plenty of Trolls out there with over size tyres that don't wobble at any speed.
 
Just wanted to bring this back and see how everyone was getting on.

Comments from Mick and gtst25 and the like, on whether they've had a win.

Also, are all 4 shims always the same size, or do you find different sizes on different sides sometimes?
 
I havent changed shimms yet. But tightening the front wheel bearing (Was WAY too lose) & regreasing the king bearings made a heap of difference, I still get the wobble but its very much reduced. I only get it once every 5-8 drives now instead of all the time & even then its not as bad.

Shims is next when I can measure the preload.
 
I have had a slight wobble for a while but lately it has got bad and has coincided with a knock when going in to my driveway from the left front.. Turns out the bush on the left radius arm is chopped out(heaps of play). That will likely be my cause.
 
I havent changed shimms yet. But tightening the front wheel bearing (Was WAY too lose) & regreasing the king bearings made a heap of difference, I still get the wobble but its very much reduced. I only get it once every 5-8 drives now instead of all the time & even then its not as bad.

Shims is next when I can measure the preload.
I repacked all bearings with grease last time and removed all shimms, :idiot: however now how do i measure preload?
Also what is it?
I've just ordered new bearing and seal kit for wheels and swivel hub's as all wobbling and leaking. (i play in wet mud 3 times a month)
Will order shimms when enlightened.
Thanks phil.
 
I repacked all bearings with grease last time and removed all shimms, :idiot: however now how do i measure preload?
Also what is it?
I've just ordered new bearing and seal kit for wheels and swivel hub's as all wobbling and leaking. (i play in wet mud 3 times a month)
Will order shimms when enlightened.
Thanks phil.
I would suggest that you need the have equal shim sizes for top & bottom swivel hub bearings when setting the preload. Basicly, insufficient or too much preload will cause bearing failure.

Chech this out on preload,
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Timkin bearing pre-load.pdf

From the manual.


Apply recommended grease around trunnion socket spherical area, then place knuckle flange in trunnion socket.
6. Adjust rotating force of knuckle flange (at hinge pin) to 4.9 to 14.7 N (0.5 to 1.5 kg, 1.1 to 3.3 lb) range by adding or removing upper and lower shims of same thickness. This adjustment
must be made without installing grease seal and axle shaft.

Sorry, no pictures of the fish scales / spring balance to check the preload value.

 
wobbles at slower speed?

Hi all,
i've heard of the GQ owners removing shims and it seems the GU is no different. both my GQ and now my GU had wobbles @ 90 kms. a good BobJane wheel and tyre balance, normaly getts rid of the wobble.
HOWEVER- my GU does seem 'loose/wobbly' in the front end over speed bumps (yes at slow speed) and really bumpy bits, it just does not feel right. Often at abot 60 kph it wobbles kinda like a large wobbly, not like the quick and seemingly small steering vibration i had at 90kph.
i had a local dealer do the wheel bearings about year or so ago, (about 100,000 on th clock), the wobbles improved but they are still there as mentioned above.
MY Question- could the Shims be responsible for the slow/low speed wooble ?
 
Hi kerry i'lled try the bushes, next if bearings are cool.
I've got it all on order, now to chose grease and oils, any advice please?
thanks all, phil.:bowdown:
 
Bit out of left field but have you checked the Shock Absorbers?
Worn Shocks allow the wheels to "bounce" and set up the wobbles

I had this problem with my GU. Did all the usual suspests. Front and rear Panhard bushes, On and off car wheel balance, control arm bushes, wheel bearings etc etc.

Turned out to be the 20k old Rancho 9000's.
They were fine when cold but useless as soon as they got hot

Might be worth checking, even if not that old and fine when cold
 
many things can cause shakes in patrols, cruisers too
best method is a full scale approach
tighten the king pin buy removing the top shim, first check the bearing is not jiggered and rusted
adjust (or get it adjusted) the steering box to remove any slop
check you wheel bearings are good and tight
tighten your lower control arm/ radius rods
check your damper for any freeplay
check your draglink and tie rods for wear and movement
balance your wheels... on car if necessary check wheels for any being out of shape
if you replace your draglink get an adjustable one so you steering wheel can be straightened
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Hi all,
i've heard of the GQ owners removing shims and it seems the GU is no different. both my GQ and now my GU had wobbles @ 90 kms. a good BobJane wheel and tyre balance, normaly getts rid of the wobble.
HOWEVER- my GU does seem 'loose/wobbly' in the front end over speed bumps (yes at slow speed) and really bumpy bits, it just does not feel right. Often at abot 60 kph it wobbles kinda like a large wobbly, not like the quick and seemingly small steering vibration i had at 90kph.
i had a local dealer do the wheel bearings about year or so ago, (about 100,000 on th clock), the wobbles improved but they are still there as mentioned above.
MY Question- could the Shims be responsible for the slow/low speed wooble ?
Hi Kerry,
After getting rid of the 80kay speed wobbles, we still had that same loose/wobbly feel over bumps and pot holes. Back to our mechanic (wonderful man - can I recommend him on the site??). He put it on the hoist and found nothing loose at all, then took it for a test run and he reckoned that since we'd had a front lift (50mm, but turned out to be 65 over the old springs), the castor would be wrong, he sent the car for an alignment and it came back with a print out that said it was at this and it should really be at that (may be 1deg and it should be 3??). So we got a set of 3 deg castor bushes and an alignment and that has rid us of that shaky loose feel over bumps.
I hope this helps.
 
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