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RD28 Over Heating

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11K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  RD28T_GQ  
#1 ·
Okay people i know this has been discussed ova n ova n ona again but i still havent seemed to find any1 with gd results
So i have a RD28 gq patrol 97 modle wagon n yes the bloody thing freakin over heats i can drive iot round town with no dramas at all day in day out but once i hit that 80+km a hour up goes the tempreture dnt matter if its flat ground or up a hill the temp is still climbing..

okay so it has a brand new and all the internals in the head are new as well, brand new 75mm alloy radiator, not running a clutch fan running twin 14in spal thermos witch equals 3800cfm n the clutch fan is only equaled to 3200cfm so fans cant be an issue, water pump n thermostat were done no more then 8 months ago, it use to have 2 n abit turns of fuel wound up it but is now bck down to a quarter of a turn so i cant c that being a problem either way nothing changed by playing with the fuel, al right now heres the wierd bit its running near on 20psi of boost instead of the 10 ish the thing is the more boost i seem to run the cooler it runs and u can clearly tell on my pyros with it on 12ish pound sittin on 100km a hour my pyros r well n truely oin the high 600s not gd but yea and wen im running 20 npsi the pyros r in the high 500s low 600s so this leads me to my nxt big question how do u get ur pyros down i no 550 should be absolute maxime but there nothing i can do to keep it below unless im only cruising at 60km oh n i forgot to say it has a egr block as well

so people sorry foir the masssive ass post but some help would be awsome
 
#2 ·
Mate have another look at your thermostat. From prior events I can definately say the RD28 does not like thermostats stuck open or no thermostat at all. The pump is a ****house design that cavitates easily and fills the block with air bubbles at high RPM. Very handy.

It really does sound like a drama with the thermostat. What about sitting idle, does she get hot then? Have you bled the cooling system again? The RD has a backwards, ass-about cooling system that is very suspect to airlock. If you need the factory bleeding procedure let me know, I have it on me.

Cheers,
Mick

Edit; Also, those EGT's are high, that's for sure. Are you intercooled by any chance? At that pressure, but really with these motors at any pressure, intercooling is a must.
 
#5 ·
the radiator cp is apprently the right one,,,
ill put a new thermastat in it c wat happenes but yea i only really changed it not that long ago now n if u could supply me the correct way to bleed it that woul;d be great n the water pump is no more 25000 old could it still be a problem? n no not intercooled as of yet im considering it but at the same time jus considering dropping a 4.2 in it
 
#6 ·
Mate that's one of your issues right there. The T25 turbo is pumping VERY hot air by 16PSI on our motors. By running such high pressure with no intercooler, your charge air is easily over 130 degrees, probably more. I am quite sure that is your cause of high exhaust gas temp, and you are really at risk of cracking the head at the rear of the block around pots 5 and 6 if it stays that hot.

I would advise you to either wind that boost right back to factory or put a cheap front mount intercooler on. Even a little intercooler from a Mitsubishi MT40 would be a help.

I'll PM you those bleeding instructions.

Cheers,
Mick
 
#7 ·
Okay people i know this has been discussed ova n ova n ona again but i still havent seemed to find any1 with gd results
So i have a RD28 gq patrol 97 modle wagon n yes the bloody thing freakin over heats i can drive iot round town with no dramas at all day in day out but once i hit that 80+km a hour up goes the tempreture dnt matter if its flat ground or up a hill the temp is still climbing..
had exactly the same issues, replaced the Water Pump, Viscous Hub, New Fan, New Thermostat, New Triple Core heavy duty Radiator, New Fan Belts and new Radiator Cap. The problem still existed. It ended up being the Head Gasket. As it worked out for me unfortunately, I had MTQ in Dandenong do some head work for me and for some reason un known to man kind they re used the old head gasket. As the piston was coming up, it would pressurise the coolant and blow it out the overflow bottle.

All fixed now by reputable company's and on 110Km's per hour it's cool as a cucumber, 4WD'ing in the hills it's cool all the time.
 
#9 ·
Mine after it's 3rd head started to use coolant again after only 2.5 years and as I'm doing a perth to brisbane trip with camper trailer in tow I gave up on the rd 28 and I've started the rb25 conversion as far as I'm concerned fixing the rd 28 again is uneconomical so down the conversion path I have gone and if a rb25 does crap itself another engine is only around 2k instead of the 3.5k it cost to fix the top end on the rd28.
rd28 gq They would of reused the head gasket because they are $250 plus because they are steel ones.
 
#10 ·
Mine after it's 3rd head started to use coolant again after only 2.5 years and as I'm doing a perth to brisbane trip with camper trailer in tow I gave up on the rd 28 and I've started the rb25 conversion as far as I'm concerned fixing the rd 28 again is uneconomical so down the conversion path I have gone and if a rb25 does crap itself another engine is only around 2k instead of the 3.5k it cost to fix the top end on the rd28.
rd28 gq They would of reused the head gasket because they are $250 plus because they are steel ones.
I wish I could accept that as an excuse but I just cant. It cost more than that for a reputable company to repair it all.