Hardly seems worth it, Unichip is dearer but can do much more.

 

I agree the Unichip sounds better based on that reply, but not sure Unichip would work out dearer in the long run.

If you cannot do anything with limp zones it would seem rather pointless, they can be the bane of the DI owner.

 

Argh, so the plot thickens... I spoke to their local dude and he said and I suppose without any re-search in to this that limps can be altered too.

I followed the links posted on Navara forum in regards to reflashing the eproms chips and while the actual read and write is not that difficult, the de-soldering and re-soldering the chips and sockets sounds like proverbial headfcuk not to mention if you get it wrong it is good bye having the Patrol starting again because you have to use original ECU due to NATS which Navara doesn't have hence second hand ECUs are easily obtainable to experiment on and have a back up. I don't think I'm going to play with fire and hand $1,000 over as well for the privilege of altering a bit of fuelling.

I managed to have a peak at posted Patrols eproms maps dumps and while editable easily a lot of patience and know how is required to identify what is what in there.

This ain't worth the risks involved IMHO.

Cheers

 

My sentiments exactly, it would appear that once again we can be promised the earth but the reality is much more biting. The Navara thing from what I read bares no real resemblance to our DI's, there are quite a few complications they don't have to put up with and it doesn't solve our main issues anyway.

I loved the bit where they get you 188hp, must be a big set of crutches it's on to cope with the inevitable limp.

The reply I got is apparently straight from the horses mouth.

 

I was speaking to a guy a few weeks ago and he mentioned that there is a guy that does a socket conversion for the eprom so that you can swap the eprom easily.
Cost was around $100.
IMO if you can't play with injection timing and limp points when reprogramming the eprom it is a waste of time. I want to run 30+ psi next year so I need a fix for the over boost cut that I get at 28psi

Sent from my work phone because I don't have the time to get my laptop out. its a Samsung cause im cooler than you

 

I really wish I didn't get rid of my eprom programmer.

Sent from my work phone because I don't have the time to get my laptop out. its a Samsung cause im cooler than you

 

I have an old HKS F-CON V piggy back ECU here from an CA18DET... thinking out of the square... I wonder if it could be adapted to suit a ZD30.

 

I haven't looked at the Patrol bin since I first read it out 18 months ago but i've got time off over Chrissy so i'll have another look. VNT ecu's have a map called N75 which is what controls the vnt and boost so should be controllable and limp mode should be mappable but not sure on that.

 

Any assistance in identifying the maps would be greatly appreciated. My initial look identified about 33 maps but what they're is not yet clear to me.

I think I found EGR map and possibly boost map but don't really understand those axis or what they reference be Volts/%/RPM/ Duty cycle% not there yet. That bozo on the "U" tube who runs/makes tutorials for WinOLS usage makes me to go to sleep as he goes on and on and on about it without really saying anything useful unless he's paid.

Regards

 

The unichip can easily get rid of any limp modes caused by either maf or map sensors.

It has inbuilt voltage clamps with an x-axis as rpm (user definable)

Ive wired plenty of DI's up in the past to get rid of them. Only 2 extra wires need to be run into the engine bay to the map sensor as all the fueling and timing on those is done through 4 wires, being the canbus system from ecu to pump.

If it cuts a 2.34V @ @2000rpm, you can clamp there at 2.3V.
Above that you can lift the clamp up to when ever you like at the next limp mode and rpm then set a clamp for it there and so on.

 

I see how this can be of benefit, but surely by clamping the MAF voltage to avoid these rather conservative limp points, are you then creating fuel restriction or limits and consequent flat spots at these points rather than being able to remove them with an ECU reflash.

 

No because you have access to fuel adjustments independent of what the maf and map are doing.

Its been the same when tuning for over 10 years. Clamping a voltage then increasing fuel with other means.

 

Hello to all members. I am glad to see this topic on this great forum. When i bought my GU few years ago i wanted to have it chiptuned from the first day. Here in Europe it is more common service then in Australia. We chip everything
I bought file from one chiptunning forum member because of lack of info about this strange ECU. It was good starting point, but wasn't satisfied. In the meantime I studied this eculogic in Winols.
I encourage all enthusiasts to do it yourself. I read this great forum for long time and I can't believe that most people spend thousands on voltage modifiers, piggy back ecus, pedal voltage modifiers and so on. Everything can be done with just software modifications.
My ecu was the first one I socketed and found it really easy. Dont bought the spare one. I bought cheap hotair/soldering iron station for maybe $100, cheap chinese programmer with PLCC32 adapter and did it without problems. Dont be afraid of screwing up your ecu. Immo information is stored in another one EEPROM on the board. You can transfer it to another ecu if you want, or make backup ecu first.
Unfortunately can not say, I fully understand this ecu logic these days, but I identified most important maps and make the file that runs strong without limps.
The only thing to sort are boost spikes, but as i undestand, all of you run dawes valves etc. for boost control. I ordered one too.
I recommend thread on nav forum for all who are interested in this topic.
The D.I.Y. ZD30 remap thread. - The Navara Forum
Lot of usefull info there, but Patrol engine control system/software is completely different and need to be discussed in its own thread/forum.
Let's start discussion in the Christmas time.
to Rumcajs: if you are able to import mappacks in Winols, I can send you my one.

 

I thought that I had my motor tuning to the point where I could leave it alone for now. With the modifications to air intake and larger MAF housing allowing much more air flow without possibly causing limp, then the UACF voltage modifier used to lift the MAF voltage back up slightly (Jaycar alternative for others who have not heard of it). The slightly out-of-date Rapid chip did a reasonable job for fueling and with three MAF option maps in my UAFC for different conditions, I thought I had it all sorted out.

But my last big trip bought out a few issues with reliability of this piggyback system that made me doubt the logic of just trying to work around the ECU rather than to reprogram it as the primary controller. Exactly what several others have been saying, why go to so much expense and effort to fool the ECU. Pity we can't just buy a complete new programmable unit like for other performance Nissans.

 

Exactly, but so far the avenues explored seem to indicate that it's either unreliable or not possible for the DI to control fuel/limp zones/boost limp, not that the last one has any importance to us. I really hope someone has a reliable, flexible solution re just an ECU.

What sort of issues did you encounter?

 

I agree Geeyoutoo. It would be bloody good.

Sent from my work phone because I don't have the time to get my laptop out. its a Samsung cause im cooler than you

 

I've been back thru the 2001 Patrol bin and looked at all the maps again, all the 2d and 3d maps are identified with all the axis values I know. There are probably quite a few single value limiters but without a Damos ( programmers instruction manual ) file, finding those are near impossible. If you drag the RAR file into the free winols demo version it will accept the bin file but it wont recognise the definition file as it was created in an older version of winols and they aren't compatible. If you have the 2.24 version the bin will load with all the maps identified and the axis populated, from there we can work on what needs changing.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/d1i20l0t73dg2uf/2001 gu patrol ori.zip?dl=0

This is from a 2001 model and as we have found with Navaras the programming has changed with later models, so while all the maps should be the same in later years, they may have different values in some, so it would be best to use this as a guide and then use your own original file if anyone gets to the stage where they do a remap.

 

I checked the ols you posted, Navowner and have to say - Good job. I already did this in the past, but due hdd failure i lost it. I mean mappack with all maps in the bin.
One thing can be confusing for ones who look on it first time. You have temperature conversion factor applied on all 64606 axis (RPM).
I have one question to Navowner. You named map at 39EEE as MAF voltage. Are you sure with factors you used?
Here is my ori and mappack from 2000 GU manual. I suppose, one of the first with ZD30. My ECU number is 407917-011.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l4r88buz2w8q2s5/Patrol ori and maps.zip?dl=0
From my experience and bins i collected, the end number (011, 015 etc.) is software revision. Hardware is the same at least to 02-03 years. So you can flash 011 soft to 015 ecu and have 011 ecu.
It would be nice to have collection to compare. There are lots of bins floating on the internet, but the ones with ecu number are rare.
My friend has 015 ecu in his 01 GU auto. I'll upload his ori later (he has ori chips at home).
Maps in my mappack with flags are the ones i changed to tune my car.
What confuses me in this ecu is that according to service manual the maf is used to calculate fueling under normal conditions. I have not found any map with air in mg/stroke or kg/h. Everything is based on boost pressure. It must be conversion map somewhere in the bin.
Boost pressure sensor is linearised up to 2533hpa absolute (4.5 volt signal - 1533hpa of boost = 22.2 psi) in the map at 39E22. It can read further to 5V, then it cause limp. My hand pump with gauge is not able to make more pressure than 22 psi so dont know what pressure it is exactly.
The map which confuses me is at 3CEA0. I named it as "Boost Correction" Z values are in percent. It is not "allowable overboost" because the higher numbers you set, the earlier limp comes. Once I set it experimentally to 150% and it did not allow boost more than 0.7 bar. When you divide max boost value on X axis (2560) by 1.5, result is 1706 minus atmo pressure is 706 = 0.7 bar i read on the boost gauge. It was smokey and low on power.
These days i have it set to 100% (ori is between 105% and 120% on positivie boost levels and usable rpms). It helps from limping.
Remember - I still use factory boost control solenoid.
Writing in English is hard for me. Maybe someone got interested and even look into the bins. More later.
Jan

 

Hi Jan, Good to see some interest in this. When I searched 64606 I didn't get it as an axis, which maps are you looking at with temp as rpm?

With 39EEE I couldn't find a data sheet for the MAF sensor, so I used a factor for Kg/h that I found for another bosch sensor, so yes it will be incorrect.
Yes there does seem to be lots of boost maps for a car that uses a MAF, reading on ecuconnections it is common for cars to run MAP and MAF and they can switch between the two. There could be a map that converts airflow to boost pressure, something else to research. The Navara manual says that the engine doesn't use the MAP for normal operation so that pretty much only leaves the TPS and RPM which can't be right either.

That's good info on map 3CEA0, lots of the names i've given maps are just guess's as i'm new to all this and am learning from the start, i'm not a mechanic or tuner, just someone who likes to tinker.

 

I found out few things today. My friend came to me with his 2001 GU auto. His car was already tuned by reputable company with 193hp on flywheel, dyno checked (i doubt it).
The only mod on his car is blocked EGR. Boost controlled by factory boost solenoid, no additional gauges.
I suggested him to install boost and pyro gauge.
He bought boost gauge now, so we installed it first. We made test drive, there were strong boost drops under load and max boost was 13 psi.
Then i read his ori and mod chips and found out, that tuner made few mistakes.
I made my own mod and we both were surprised how his car drives now. It was as night and day. Boost was exactly where i requested it (max. 21 psi). No boost drops under load. Heaps of torque. When we recalled peak boost on his electronic gauge, it was 1 psi only over max requested. No visible smoke. When he install pyro gauge, we check exhaust temps and adjust fuelling to the final value.
I am happy with this result, but disappointed from my own car. It is obvious that i have turbo related problem, because my boost is really unstable with raised fueling. Strong overboosts to 26 psi.
Here is ori soft for 2001 GU with auto trans, ECU number 407917-015
https://www.dropbox.com/s/li8yospiwueznh8/407917-015 Patrol ori.zip?dl=0
Lots of differences in the program area to manual soft. In the calibration area biggest differences are in Start of injection map, VNT precontrol maps and drivers wish map.

 

I also found one interesting map. It is used for afterglow duration control. I measured afterglow duration on cold engine (8 celsius), it was exactly 5 minutes (300 sec.)
When Navowner posted his full defined ols, I checked it and found map that controls it.
I changed it as you can see on the pictures, flashed to the ecu and measured again - It works.
My glow plugs will be happy

When we discussed the MAF, Navowner wrote that wasnt able to find datasheet for it. I think i found some info. It is standart Bosch HFM5 type (i know bosch is not original manufacturer, but those are well documented. Bosch also makes MAF for Nissans - pn 02800218152, HFM 5-4.7 type). Bosch dont sell the only sensor as Nissan does, only with housing.
According to Bosch datasheet it should be type 3 (71/80mm housing ID/OD) 640 kg/h. Unfortunately in the catalogue is PN 02800218152 listed as 5-4.7, not 5-6.4.
I didnt find datasheet for HFM5 470 kg/h with housing ID 71mm, only this one. There is curve for 470kg/h type with different housing. Maybe useless.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a31rujbavc7yw86/Bosch HFM 5 sensors_airmass.pdf?dl=0

Maybe one day we will be able to find the conversion used inside this soft between boost presure and amount of air and precisely calculate A/F ratio. Not just guess or rely on visibility of smoke or raised exhaust temps.

 

First, thanks to all the members sharing their knowledge on ZD30 remapping, and especially Honzak and Navowner.

I am trying to identify maps on european ZD30 Terrano 2. Most of them are identical or very similar to Navara and Patrol ones, but at different addresses.

I will share my work when complete (pretty close to it), but I still have some questions:

I also found one interesting map. It is used for afterglow duration control. I measured afterglow duration on cold engine (8 celsius), it was exactly 5 minutes (300 sec.)
When Navowner posted his full defined ols, I checked it and found map that controls it.
I changed it as you can see on the pictures, flashed to the ecu and measured again - It works.
My glow plugs will be happy

Is it the map at 3B508 on Patrol?

And one more - Navowner wrote about a 3D map, limiting the I.Q. from the coolant temperature. Any ideas where it can be in Patrol's BINs? IQ temperature limiter is one of the last from important ones I still cannot identify neither on Patrol or Terrano ori-s. Is it present at all on Patrol? Is it 3D or 2D?

 

More good info Jan, I guess that answers the question of whether the DI can be mapped.
If the MAF is 640kg/hr just change the x axis factor to 0.05738 (from 0.03362). To get that number divide 640 into 11152, which is the highest number on the x axis.

 

You lost me at x, when you get it sorted and stop speaking a foreign language let us know the outcome................................

Now, as a very simple question, there appears to be at least 3 generations in the ZD30DI ECU (maybe someone can clarify that point) mine is October 2000 build so I'll say first generation, to which generation(s) do you refer?

 

You lost me at x, when you get it sorted and stop speaking a foreign language let us know the outcome................................

I do not understand this sentence. If it is related to my poor English, then i'm sorry.
If it is related to the subject "Reflashing possibility of DI Ecu", then i am bit dissapointed of your attitude to the subject. I supposed it is about how to do it yourself and not "when you finish, let me know". I know it is not for everybody, but tuning factory ecu is done this way.
I am not professional tuner, just enthusiast who loves challenges. I dont want to sell you final product.
I started with this maybe 2 years ago. Got stucked several times to the point where i wanted to give it up. There was not any public info about this ECU. Seemed no one interested in. I wanted to start public discussion about it as it needs more brains working together.
The task "Reflashing DI ECU" has 2 parts.
First is how to do it physically. It is the easy part. Just change 2 not electricaly erasable chips to another ones. Read old, write modified soft to new. Thats all.
Second part is how to modify the software and understand this ecu. Someone told you, that only fueling can be adjusted. Thats not true. You can change everything, what this ecu does. Boost, injection timing, fueling, glowing, alter curves for sensors like MAF, MAP, temp sensors. Anything what you are able to recognize in the software.
I suppose limits of safe mod controlled by ecu without fooling any sensor, is 22psi of boost and aprox. 80mg of fuel per stroke. Should be 200-220 hp on flywheel with IC upgrade.
One day, when i finish with my car i will go to dyno and measure it. I use my car just for holidays and meetings, so i am not in hurry.

Now, as a very simple question, there appears to be at least 3 generations in the ZD30DI ECU (maybe someone can clarify that point) mine is October 2000 build so I'll say first generation, to which generation(s) do you refer?

Simple answer is: I talk about first genertion, 00-03 years. The ecu files in this topic are from 2000-2001 cars. 04 should be a facelift. I dont know how you call it - GU4? I think those ones have EDC16 obd flashable ecu. Same engine , but completely different ecu. 07 CRD is again completely different.

 

I think Geeyoutoo was referring to my post about changing the x axis to fix the MAF scaling, that was something he didn't understand.

 

As for ecu variants I've being using ecu's marked as "A9" in my Navara and haven't had any problems with using ecu's from other years as long a they are A9, however, another Nav forum member bought some ecu's that had "DFP" instead of "A9" on them, and when he wrote my map to them the car would start and run for a minute or two then stop, so there are differences and it is best to use ecu's with the same numbers on them.

I compared the two files and there were about 4 maps that had minor changes but a lot of random single values were different as well. I remapped his DFP file, wrote it on some chips and put them in my A9 ecu and didn't have any problems on a half hour drive so i'm not real sure what the problem was but think it might be hardware related.

I've probably written 300 different maps to my ecu so well understand the procedure, it just becomes a mater of making changes and going for a drive to see how it affects things. The main maps you need to change are obvious once you have done the research, it's just finding the single values limiters and understanding the minor maps that takes time.

 

lots and lots of learning to do.
I'm impressed with what I've seen so far.
Rumpig's advice has been invaluable.

Turning EGR off is a lot better than blocking it because you don't get the associated fuel reduction. Simple too.

There is a lot to WinOLS. Slowly learning it. Did I mention that us IT guys hate having to RTFM.
Drivers Wish will be a fun map.

 

Yeah it's a steep learning curve when you start from scratch. Couldn't have done it without winols and learning how to use that was a mission itself.

 

I'm not 100% sure but I believe all DI's need the chips replaced and CRD's can be flashed thru the OBD2 plug. I think 2006 was the year diesels had to become OBD2 compliant.

 

You have to desolder both eproms and socket the board first. Then copy the rom to your pc and mod it.
The eproms on a Di are write once. This isn't a issue as you can get rewritable ones for about $4 each. You need a odd and a even chip so that is $8

I need a lesson in injection timing now. Lots more learning....

Sent from my work phone because I don't have the time to get my laptop out. its a Samsung cause im cooler than you

 

Being that only wagons have immobilizers it might be possible to get a secondhand ute ecu, socket that then just unplug the immobilizer at the ignition barrel. If the sockets failed you could just put your original ecu back in and plug the immobilizer back in. Did something similar on my motorbike.

 

I am not sure about GU4 ecus, but you can open it and compare with picture in this thread. I posted zip file in one of my post with picture of the ecu board.
I was told, that GU4 should be obd flashable, but i am not sure.
To the immo problem. Immo information is stored in another Eeprom (24C02 SOIC8 type) on the board. I have file for immo off for this chip, but not confirmed it is working solution.
If someone read this eprom from ecu without immo it should work also in the Patrol ECU.
Navaras here in Europe doesnt have ZD30 and have NATS, so I dont have access to it.
Another way is taht you can of course write immo data from your own ecu to the new (spare) and dont make it immo off.

 

I am not sure about GU4 ecus, but you can open it and compare with picture in this thread. I posted zip file in one of my post with picture of the ecu board.
I was told, that GU4 should be obd flashable, but i am not sure.

My 2005 GU ZD30 Di Series IV has the ECU designation K7.

I would be really interested to find out if it is OBD re-flashable. Is there other information on the ECU label that can provide more information if this is possible.