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Gravity supply I.P.

I'll replace the primer. I don't have a pump that will supply fuel to the IP so skipping the filter assy would be quite difficult. If the new primer won't help, then it is time for pulling some codes from the IPs ecu. Researched it and it can be done with a k-line cable like this one.

What if you try a gravity supply direct to the I.P. Connect a supply line to the bottom of a clean fuel supply (20 ltr drum lifted high )and it will self bleed as the air will rise .

keep it simple .
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
Finished installing primer. Still I am having a difficult time to prime the fuel lines. Primer goes rock hard, but soften after a while as the fuel slowly disappears in the pump inlet. I played with the primer for about an hour. The o-ring of the water sensor was changed and is new so is the filter element itself. The primer is brand new genuine with a new o-ring on the primer bottom - the thread where the filter screws in. Where the heck all that fuel goes? Is the spill line leaky/cracked? I didn't started the car. I guess it all will be the same 94.9% ICV with white smoke from fuel.

I'm uploading video on youtube right now to show what is happening.

Video is here: https://youtu.be/7DGwofPUClw
 

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я напишу тебе по русски, ты переведи сам гугл переводчиком
Шланг от топливного фильтра идет к ТНВД, банджо .
надо открутить бандж болт и проверить или заменить шайбы на банджо болту, надо поставить алюминиевые шайбы толстые.
Надо открутить бандж болт обртного топлива и там проверить шайбы, под обратным банджо болтом стоит обратный клапан, он не должен пропускать топливо.
Когда все проверишь, то нужно прокачать топливо, для этого снять твой прозрачный шланг и поставить пластиковую бутылку, накачать топливо в бутылку и потом опять одеть шланг.
Ты должен попросить еще одного человека в помощ, он должен непрерывно рукой качать насос, а ты заводишь машину одновременно.

I'll write to you in Russian, you translate Google itself by translator
The hose from the fuel filter goes to the injection pump, banjo.
You need to unscrew the banjo bolt and check or replace the washers on the banjo bolt, you have to put the aluminum washers thick.
It is necessary to unscrew the bandgle bolt and check the washers there, under the reverse banjo bolt there is a check valve, it should not let the fuel pass.
When everything is checked, you need to pump the fuel, to do this, remove your transparent hose and put a plastic bottle, pump the fuel into the bottle and then put the hose on again.
You must ask one more person for help, he must pump the pump continuously with his hand, and you start the car at the same time.
 

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Discussion starter · #50 ·
Thanks Nikolay, I'll check the overflow valve. The primer goes hard after a few primes quite easily, but after a short while it is soft again. Maybe I should check the spill line if it holds the vacuum using brake bleeder. What I am trying to say is that if the primer can go hard the overflow might be good.
 
I didn't started the car. I guess it all will be the same 94.9% ICV with white smoke from fuel.

I'm uploading video on youtube right now to show what is happening.

Video is here: https://youtu.be/7DGwofPUClw
As per video,

disconnect clear plastic hose from the pump fitting and put it in the container then prime while keeping the hose end submerged, that will speed up priming/filling of the fuel filter. You will not be able to prime the filter with the hose connected. Once the filter is full (container will fill up with fuel) reconnect the hose and carry on pumping until primer goes hard.

Then try to start the engine.
 
Still following this, Alan has it well in hand, but Miron when you get this sorted I reckon it's time to consider a lift pump, any leak is very easily detected.

On a side note I have been very worried about my ICV% for some time as it was dropping slowly, the last week or so it's coming back, got me buggered what is going on.... I'm back to idling just under 50%???????

Good luck with it mate I truly hope it is not an expensive fix.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Thanks, Ross. Oh, yes, lift pump is on the list - Carter P4601HP. Definitely reveals leaks faster. When I get back home I prime the system with the bottle again. Car doesn't stay on a flat land right now, but I have a little suspicion that my oil level is quite high after the turbo rebuild. That leads me to the cracked or leaky spill line idea. I properly sort the air bleeding from the system and watch the ICV% again. Mine idles normally at ~75% with about 170.000Ks on the clock.
 
.... I have a little suspicion that my oil level is quite high after the turbo rebuild. That leads me to the cracked or leaky spill line idea. ...
You may want to ensure that is not a case! That is the engine killing fault as diesel fuel dilutes engine oil and there would be poor lubrication as well as lower oil pressure related symptoms.

You can tell if you have a diesel in the oil dipstick is much cleaner and viscosity of oil is noticeable. Sometimes you can even smell it.

Regards
 
Dipstick is clean but the new oil is there for about a 100Ks, and EGR is blocked also. Surely have to figure it out if that is not the case.
So how far above max mark? How much did you put in? 8.2 L will go over full mark about 5 mm if standing overnight.

In the old says we used clean old engines with 1/4 of fill substituted by diesel fuel. Engine would rattle but the black sludge would come out.

Regards
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
The workshop that rebuilt the turbo was asked to put in 8.2-8.4L and change the oil filter - both oil & filter i supplied. The car is not on a flat land so hard to tell, will look at it when I bleed the air. Usually if I put 8.2-8.4L the dipstick sits in the middle overnight.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
Looked at it once again - way over the max mark almost at the crimped wire. The limit is barely visible so I guess the viscosity is on the low side due to diesel. However the oil has still its Mobil Delvac smell. The oil was supplied by me from a 20L canister that was used once and I can get a figure of the new oil volume when I pour out the rest of the canister. Should get around 3-3.6L from it.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Small update, in between as I am repairing the 2nd car. There was 2L left in the 20L canister. It seems they overfilled a bit 1-1.6L. Wish I had the fumoto drain plug, drain a bit and send it for oil analysis.
 
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