You will need a EFR6758 with a .64ar housing, If you intend to venture into a 12mm mechanical injector pump UFI only you should go for the twin scroll T4 .80ar housing.

Then you need a adapter to fit you manifold for the .64ar you need a T3 to T25 adapter, Adapter T3 to T25 Using this adapter due to its thickness you will need to massage the shock tower inner guard to give clearance if you use a turbosmart actuator.

For the twin scroll T4 .80ar housing you need a T3 to T4 adapter Adapter T3 to T4 Using this adapter being half the thickness the inner guard will not need massaging to fit a turbo smart actuator.

The fitting and oil feed hoses you will need is -4 hose 350 long with 2 x 90° 4an fittings to attach to the block you need a straight 1/8 BSP to 4an nipple. For the turbo the 4an fitting is supplied with turbo.

Water lines you must use with a ball bearing turbo. -6 hose 1 meter cut so you have 2 lengths 300mm and 700mm fittings required are 4 x 90° 6an fittings to suit -6 hose rubber ss braid or plastic ss braid. For the connection fittings you need 2 X straight 6an 14x1.5mm nipples for the turbo CHRA and 2 x straight 12x1.5mm nipples for the block and thermostat housing. I recommend drill and tap the 38mm thermostat housing inlet tube for return water 12x1.5mm. You can get all hose and fittings from Aeroflow.

For the exhaust you need a Borg Warner EFR specific Vband clamp and flange Vband EFR and one 90° S/S 1.5 D or 1D elbow for your dump pipe. For me only, I then use 2 x 45° elbows reversed to line up to a STD positioned 3 inch exhaust system, i dont use or try and use the STD 3 bolt flange on the STD exhaust its painful and ugly, i just weld it all together and drop the stabilizer bar to fit the dump pipe system.

You can use the STD EFR actuator with your Boost Tee for OK results

Optional but highly recommended. For best response you should go for a turbosmart actuator designed for the EFR series. actuator EFR 14psi spring for the 11 mm IP and 21 psi spring for the 12mm IP. You can use this dual port with a manual boost tee but better with the single port. I also recommend you get the 4 port Max valve over the 2 port closed loop configeration.

To complement the turbosmart dual port actuator i highly recommend the turbosmart electronic Eboost street 40 psi controller E Boost Street or the GFB electronic boost controller GFB controller

For the actuator adjustment on a 11mm IP you need 2 turns on the adjuster nut after firm using the Eboost or GFB and 14psi spring, for manual boost Tee 3 turns with mixed results for 22 to 24 psi boost
For the actuator adjustment on a 12mm UFI only you need 4 turns after firm using the EBoost or GFB and 21 psi spring. Manual tee forget it, it doesn't work very well as you will be pushing 30 psi.

Hope that helped and i dont think i have forgotten anything.

 

@Electrolyte you won't get better advice than that anywhere on the planet.

 

My 2c on the topic.

From what I know, the EFR is a very good option for what you want. When it comes to low end spool up and torque, and working with less fuel, ie 10mm or 11mm injector pumps, the EFR is hard to beat. It is also hard to beat with a 12mm pump. Quite simply, at this point, it is the best off the shelf turbo for the TD42.

But there is no "bolt on kit". As Oldmav has listed above, most of what is needed has been well documented in the Borg Warner EFR thread, but you will need to get the pieces together yourself. The reality is that the hoses, fittings, and pipe work are the only tricky bit, as you will need to work these out yourself.

 

Wow, I wasn't expecting such a quick and comprehensive response. I'm really grateful @OldMav. I've read a lot of your posts and have great confidence in your advice.
I'm on the road atm, but when I get home I'll work through what you have said in detail and get planning.
Thanks again.

 

I am seriously considering this BW turbo upgrade to my 2004 TD42 GU III as well.
Thanks for the comprehensive info OldMav [emoji106]
@Electolyte please do update this thread if you find more info.
Also maybe we can combine effort and purchasing power and buy 2 X?
I'm in Melb BTW.

 

There is a long and detailed thread on the EFR6758. Plenty of info in there, and covers a lot of issues people had in sorting things out.

 

What about the UFI 16g large?

That's pretty much bolt on and walk away is it not?

Great low down torque and suits the gu 11mm just fine?

 

What about the UFI 16g large?

That's pretty much bolt on and walk away is it not?

Great low down torque and suits the gu 11mm just fine?

Yep, comes in a kit, works well, good option.

But it does not compare to the EFR.

 

@Electrolyte this is your thread you do with it what you will. The only reason it went EFR was because you suggested that might be your path. Being a DIY system it has limited appeal even if it is a very good fit to the TD. There are other good fit turbo's with bolt on ability all supplied.

I would suggest you post your options and the why's so other can see your logic which might fit or suit others.

We already have a well documented EFR thread, my post was only a summary to make it easier for you to chose your options and what you needed to source for the EFR DIY option nothing more.

 

So, I'm thinking that the efr with standard actuator initially, possibly add an electronic boost controller. I'm assuming the afr supplied solenoid v/v is ok to use for this?
It seems the hardest part of the install is the dump pipe. Does anyone have the dimensions of the efr, (I couldn't find them on the BW data sheets) specifically the turbine outlet flange face to manifold outlet centre? That would give me how much room left for the dump bend.
p.s. BW say cooling is required for Al housing, but silent regarding CI. Does that mean an iron housing doesn't need cooling?
Thanks.

 

I can get the measurement for you next week. But from experience you will get a 1D 3 inch bent to fit if you cut right on the start of the inside radius, that will leave you about 10mm clearance to the firewall. 1D bends are difficult to find and only in mild steel. S/Steel is usually 1.5D bends. You can still fit this bend cutting at a angle on the radius and slotting the top of the bend to fit the Vband flange or cut off the Vband tube recess so the 3 inch bend can overlap the flange opening. Having the bend square will not line up with the 3 bolt exhaust flange you will need to have the bend come around to 100° to engage the 3 bolt flange, even then its so close it fits with horrible angles. What i do is use 2 x 45° bend reversed to bring the angle back straight and remove the 3 bolt flange and just weld to the exhaust pipe.

And yes i mig welded it because i was lazy and couldn't be bothered bringing my tig to my son in laws shed. My son in law is a GTR Godzilla nut so the shed is full of rice boy engine bits. Hmmm have you seen the money those crappy GTR's Nissans get these days.

 

Thanks @OldMav . I think you must have an emergency alert set to respond to my questions so quickly.😳.
That bend is reminiscent of the Loch Ness monster.lol.
I think I can get a tight bend and was thinking to put a set in the dropper, similar to your double 45, but using two 'lobster tail' cuts instead and using a three bolt flange to match the exhaust. Or do you think a short braided Flexi connection would work or would that flop around too much?
Looks like I need to practice my welding first. Mostly done stick welding, but do have access to Mig and Tig.
Sorry, don't know anything about Rice boys or GTRs, although seen, but mostly heard, a number of clapped out Subaru WRXs blowing off round here .

 

I have done the lobster back reverse bend to the STD 3 bolt flange. Well it works but ugly for flow, its just too close to do a nice reverse bend. You could do it but you will need to reposition the 3 bolt flange down about 2 inches to be nice, but then it has clearance issues to the chassis rail etc. There isn't a lot of room at that position.

WRX owners are want to be Nissan GT r32 owners. Oh and i just happened to be on when you posted i was having a morning wake up coffee.

 

Thanks @OldMav . l look forward to getting that dimension.
The more I think about this the more questions I have.
Referring to my first post, I said I was not looking for max power . I don't think I will go to a 12mm pump etc. However, as we know, power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely. So, regarding your advice on single/ twin scroll and different casings, what are the pros and cons if I were to go for the twin scroll but still have the 11mm pump.
I would behave thought the twin would spool more quickly, but is this offset by the larger turbine housing? I don't think the standard exhaust manifold is split, so does this obviate the benefit of the twin scroll if I don't change it? What other considerations?

 

The STD T manifold is a split pulse manifold.

The reason i suggested the .80ar twin scroll for the 12mm is because you loose nothing in early spool over the .64ar single scroll but you loose a lot of EMP ratio above max boost point. This is a really good advantage it allows the power to rise all the way to max rpm with less fuel or higher AFR ratio. That doesn't mean the single scroll .64ar isn't better, it just has more EMP above peak boost point. It isn't excessive about 1.6:1 ish depending on how you set the gate and controller you use. The .64ar single scroll works well on the 11mm and 10mm with below 1.4:1 emp: imp.

I haven't tested the twin scroll .80ar on a 11mm T engine it isn't something i am interested in to be honest. But logic suggests it probably would react the same as the single scroll due to the pulse effect advantage of about 15%. So you might see a slight slower boost rise off idle but i doubt it and you would probably could only see the difference on a dyno.

Just to be clear i don't do this stuff for max power i do it for driveability, response and transitions, it just so happens you end up with 200 rwkw's.

 

Thanks @OldMav that's really helpful. I'm now thinking the twin scroll is the way to go even with the 11mm pump.
One last question for now as I have been unable to confirm this elsewhere. Does the turbo just hang off the manifold or does it need a support bracket also? The HT18 has a substantial bracket attached to the engine block.

 

The support bracket is a OEM thing they used before they fitted flex joints into exhaust systems. I believe its a left over thing now days even though many OEM's still have them.

Its not required and there is no provisions to fit a bracket to the EFR.