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Great thread! So I've just installed a brown davis 80L sub in the GU, all set up and workin good... then I left the pump running, engine off, to transfer a bit and see how it went. After maybe 5 minutes I guess? it cut out. Wouldnt immediately turn back on. Felt the pump and it was warm, far from hot. Its all good again now. Maybe theres a voltage cuttout or somesuch? Any knowledge on this? Cheers.
 
I got the sub tank changed as well, but the guage is not working properly any I think I will be going back for a fix. When empty the guage reads 1/4 and the pump is not auto turning off.
 
1. The sub will not pump (whether manually selected or on startup) when the main tank is full. This is so you do not pump fuel out the expansion/overflow outlets onto the ground.
2. The sub will pump approx 1 litre on startup when the main tank level is below approximately 7/8's full (as previously said). It will empty pretty quickly if started frequently.
3. The sub will not pump when down to approximately 2-5 litres left in tank.
4. You can check to see if sub is pumping on startup if you remove main tank filler and start engine. The sub empties into the main filler neck approximately 4-5" down so you can see it.
5. The sub tank is controlled by an ECU and looks at several sensors. The ECU is prone to lock up with certain types of turbo timers due to losing one of the voltage lines.
6. If you get a sub tank light illumination, disconnect the battery first for a few minutes (negative only). This should fix over 90% of the problems. There are earth issues with the sub pump as the chassis is not earthed to the body. Also turbo timers cause the sub tank light to illuminate.
7. You had better hope that you do not have a sub pump failure as they are $800 a pop. If you do, get a bocsh pump and wire it in bypassing the ECU, or
8. Pi$$ the whole system off and put in a Toyota 75/79 series fuel changeover system. That way you can suck fuel from either the main or sub direct to the engine. Very handy if you get a tank of bad fuel. This is something I will be doing if my 3rd sub tank pump fails.

Regards
David
Bro, this is golden.

As a new 2008 patrol owner, this is awesome.

I didn't understand is operation and had hoped it operated like the Toyota one you described. I am going to fill only my sub tank soas to rotate fuel.
 
Guys dumb question, as I have a 2015 patrol ute is the sub tank switch spring loaded or should it lock in when you push it in ad mine doesn't and always display sub tank no matter what I do with the switch.
It should lock in, but, it won't transfer until a certain level is reached in the main tank. Try disconnecting the battery for 15min and see if the system resets.
 
mine pops in, and pops out when you turn it off, though there isnt /that/ much travel distance. the light under the subtank word lights up when its in operation. so even if you push it in and youve got no fuel in there, it wont light up, or if the main tank is too full, it also wont light up.. and if you leave the subtank pump on, without moving the switch, the light will extinguish once there is no fuel left in the sub, while the switch is still pushed in.

so the light really only represents the fuel pump running.

hope that explains it.
 
Just a word of advice.....always keep some fuel (preferrably full, or close to) in the sub tank so that the pump does not get stuffed trying to pump non-existent fuel across each time you start the vehicle. The transfer pump is apparently VERY expensive as well as being a bit sensitive.
Hey mate, I am having some issues with the sub tank on a 2004 GU Ute. The light on the switch was turning on but not pumping fuel. I checked the voltage at the pump . Was around 5-6V The fuse was ok. When I put the plug back in the light now doesn’t work.Test /fault mode did not work. Tried that several times. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Cheers Paul
 
If yours is a DI it maybe worth disconnecting the battery for 15minutes to reset the control unit, I had to do this many years ago out on the road to get back square one.
Worth a try.
 
1. The sub will not pump (whether manually selected or on startup) when the main tank is full. This is so you do not pump fuel out the expansion/overflow outlets onto the ground.
2. The sub will pump approx 1 litre on startup when the main tank level is below approximately 7/8's full (as previously said). It will empty pretty quickly if started frequently.
3. The sub will not pump when down to approximately 2-5 litres left in tank.
4. You can check to see if sub is pumping on startup if you remove main tank filler and start engine. The sub empties into the main filler neck approximately 4-5" down so you can see it.
5. The sub tank is controlled by an ECU and looks at several sensors. The ECU is prone to lock up with certain types of turbo timers due to losing one of the voltage lines.
6. If you get a sub tank light illumination, disconnect the battery first for a few minutes (negative only). This should fix over 90% of the problems. There are earth issues with the sub pump as the chassis is not earthed to the body. Also turbo timers cause the sub tank light to illuminate.
7. You had better hope that you do not have a sub pump failure as they are $800 a pop. If you do, get a bocsh pump and wire it in bypassing the ECU, or
8. Pi$$ the whole system off and put in a Toyota 75/79 series fuel changeover system. That way you can suck fuel from either the main or sub direct to the engine. Very handy if you get a tank of bad fuel. This is something I will be doing if my 3rd sub tank pump fails.

Regards
David
Hey there, which pump is the correct one to get? I will have another look at why it’s not working . I am thinking replacement of the pump is needed
 
Also anytime you start the vehicle, I believe a tiny amount of fuel is sent from the sub to the main.
everytime you start the car the tranfer pump automatically transfers fuel into the main tank for 10 seconds....
I can confirm this behavior is happening on my 2018 GCC spec Y61. Firstly, I thought this is an issue. But it makes perfect sense from the safety point of view: dashboard computer must be able to diagnose and fire up a warning light “aux pump oopsie” when you start your journey. Finding out that oopsie in the middle of desert isn’t that nice.

Photos from June 9 and June 19 attached.

Well, it seems it messes my fuel consumption measurements a little bit, probably adding an error of nearly 1 liter per 100 km.


 
I can confirm this behavior is happening on my 2018 GCC spec Y61. Firstly, I thought this is an issue. But it makes perfect sense from the safety point of view: dashboard computer must be able to diagnose and fire up a warning light “aux pump oopsie” when you start your journey. Finding out that oopsie in the middle of desert isn’t that nice.

Photos from June 9 and June 19 attached.

Well, it seems it messes my fuel consumption measurements a little bit, probably adding an error of nearly 1 liter per 100 km.

View attachment 571958
View attachment 571959
The pump runs for around 5 seconds on start up, the more short runs you do the more those 5 seconds mount up. If you don't top up the sub at each fill you eco numbers will not be accurate.
 
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