Remember that ICV% relates to the amount of fuel being returned to the tank (what is left over after the shot has been filled). With it rattling that sounds like air in the system, have you tried the clear hose? I recently changed my fuel filter and had to pump out 4L before I got rid of all the air in the system. I would have expected a 73 code as well if the pump pcb was failing.

Sorry I can't be of more help mate.

 

Yes mate, I remember that ICV% relation. It is just that 94.9% what seems very odd to me, almost all fuel returned? I'm going through all useful posts re VP44 & ICV% at the moment. In this case it seems as an intermittent fault that happened twice and not depending on vehicle speed/rpms. Anyway I'll get a clear hose and watch for any air in the system before and after filter. The hose clamps were tightened a couple of months ago. I've read the primer is also prone to a failure allowing the air to enter the system.

UPDATE: after I turned off the engine I primed the system, after 2 hours I got back and had to prime the system again - ca 3 times till primer was hard.

 

Sorry mate I can't remember whether you have a lift pump or not, just want to make sure, I'm guessing no as your primer should remain hard all the time and if you had an external leak you would see the result. 2 hours and 3 pumps would indicate there may be a small leak causing ingestion of air, could be the small "O" ring under the filter housing that the main thread sits against, or as you say could be the primer itself.

 

Nope, mine's without a lift pump. OK, I might search for a leak around the filter at first.

 

This morning I wanted to go shopping for a clear hose and some other stuff as well, 2 minutes after starting the engine came dreaded P77 back and ICV% stuck at 94.9 and engine stalled even on the slightest incline in the yard. ICV% doesn't change if I prime the system, shutdown and start the engine again. Found an interesting hose state. I installed the short 7 cm hose pieces a couple of months ago and they look like this now. I have the clear hose 10x14mm and 9x15mm and going to replace these shorts pices to see what is going to happen. I noticed some grayish/whiteish smoke from the exhaust when the engine had trouble getting fuel. Actually, how does the fuel line run from the tank to the engine bay?
full size hosted on postimg:

and a small attachment:

 

White smoke can be caused through lack of combustion. The fuel line from the tank to pump is 10mm ID.

I don't quite understand what you mean in that pic?

 

There are some cracks in fuel hoses in the pic. Today I replaced the cracked pre filter hose with a 10x14mm clear one. Cranked the engine, whiteish smoke from exhaust, 94.9 ICV%, rough rattling idle and bubbles from .5 up to 4mm more frequently than every second entering the filter. My question is: How much is too much? Anyway I am thinking of supplying the engine from a 10 or 20L canister through the filter with the pump return line going to the canister of course. Does it have a bit of logic to rule out the pump failure? There is still the primer and filter involved though. OTOH a clear hose post filter might rule out a failed primer. I saw from under the car the fuel line goes like this:
pump -> hose -> filter/primer -> hose -> metal tube from the front axle to the rear -> hose -> short metal tube -> hose -> tank tube/tank.
Is that right? Hmm, this is going to be a tremendous adventure

 

G'day,

You will always be able to prime the system with manual pump as the pressure drops when engine is stationary....

Also as a first step, have you changed fuel filter?

Anyway to eliminate supply lines issue it is a good idea to run the fuel system from separate container to see what is happening.

I don't envy you as the system is difficult to ID and the dreaded VP44 design doesn't help.

If you suspect suction line side leak you could disconnect the hose from the pipe in the engine bay and temporarily block outgoing line to pump and pressurise the system with compressed air and check for leaks around filter housing, hose connections, primer etc. Just use low air pressure settings 50-100 kPa.

I have noticed you wrote a line about a "prefilter", please don't tell me you've added another filter in there without additional lift pump?!!

Any fuel not used is returned back to fuel tank after the overflow valve on the pump. The leak off fuel from injectors is reused back in to suction line on the pump unlike the traditional system where it is returned to fuel tank....

Also what is that T piece on the suction line before filter doing there?

Regards

 

You should have no air in the line at all

 

OK, based on this I assume I have a problem before the filter. I hope the metal tube mounted to the frame can last ages and I just have to check the hose connections.

G'day,

You will always be able to prime the system with manual pump as the pressure drops when engine is stationary....

Also as a first step, have you changed fuel filter?

Anyway to eliminate supply lines issue it is a good idea to run the fuel system from separate container to see what is happening.

I don't envy you as the system is difficult to ID and the dreaded VP44 design doesn't help.

If you suspect suction line side leak you could disconnect the hose from the pipe in the engine bay and temporarily block outgoing line to pump and pressurise the system with compressed air and check for leaks around filter housing, hose connections, primer etc. Just use low air pressure settings 50-100 kPa.

I have noticed you wrote a line about a "prefilter", please don't tell me you've added another filter in there without additional lift pump?!!

Any fuel not used is returned back to fuel tank after the overflow valve on the pump. The leak off fuel from injectors is reused back in to suction line on the pump unlike the traditional system where it is returned to fuel tank....

Also what is that T piece on the suction line before filter doing there?

Regards

Hi mate! I ordered a new fuel filter, wasn't available on thursday. I use the finest I can get over here (Mann Hummel WK 940/6 X).

I am going to run the system from the container and see what happens. If ICV% recovers then pump should be good and I'll proceed with pressurizing the system as you suggest.

The pre-filter was meant to be a side before the filter element, not an additional filter since I don't have a lift pump yet.

The T piece is supplying fuel for my Eberspacher heating unit and is further reduced to 4 or 6mm ID.

 

Eberspacher unit had been connected like that for 15 years. T piece came with the fitting kit. It doesn't interfere because the symptom is still there when I disconnect the unit hose and T piece. Judging from the ICV% screwed up really quickly (about 2 hours of driving) and made the vehicle undriveable it is something that got loose quickly, corroded to a tiny hole or electronic in PCM gave up not showing the 0703. I'll get a clear hose for the return line and pickup line today and progress further.

 

Back to the topic. Today I fiddled with the clear hoses, changed the fuel filter, ran the system from a 10L container and all came up with this. No air bubbles on the inlet side, air on the outlet side is clearly visible. Everything seems fine when I prime the system, even in idle RPMs there is no air only MIL 0707 code, but as soon as I demand power and raise the RPMs the air shows in this place. ICV% rock solid 94.9 from the start of the engine and doesn't change, well it does fall down if I shut down the engine. Whiteish smoke out of the exhaust, not much, just some and is quite eyes burning. @rumcajs you may remember Avia car and its white smoke - smells and looks exactly the same Summing this up - fuel lines should be OK, filter is 100% OK, tried to block the primer inlet side - holds vacuum quite well. Any suggestions what to do next? Seems I still have three choices - primer sucking air, pump's gone or clogged injectors(I am unsure with injectors as this will not suck air in perhaps). The issue showed up really fast after about 70KMs, twice hiccup with 0707 code and ICV% 94.9 and third time 0707 and permanent ICV% 94.9, luckily at home already . It seems to me like the famous MOSFET from the PSG5 gave up its silicon ghost without the 0703 code. Appreciate any feedback mates ;-)

 

....Whiteish smoke out of the exhaust, not much, just some and is quite eyes burning. @rumcajs you may remember Avia car and its white smoke - smells and looks exactly the same .....

Yeah I remember those buckets of shyte very well, that smoke was unburnt fuel especially during cold start up, common problem if the preheater wasn't working properly. Also being atmo engines with the inline injection pumps 60's style built under license from French Saviem, there was a little concern about emissions in those days....

Unfortunately what I know about VP44 (6 cylinder light truck version) and its white smoke, that is usually terminal. Since the sole DTC is of a little help what you actually need is the proper Bosch scanning tool which connects to the pump directly to querry pump ECU. Local Bosch injection specialist should have one I'm sure.

I hope I'm not correct...(fingers crossed) now if this is the case where the built in lift pump inside the injection pump is not working (it is simple vane type) properly (cavitating for example) then the issue will be escalating quickly because the fuel is also used to lubricate, control and cool the pump. This is why these pumps suffer failures so quickly when fuel supply is affected.

Lets hope the smoke is there because of lack of injection advance due to less fuel supply and not the starvation taking the pump out.....

I would try (easy for me to say as I got 80 L a minute 12 V electrical transfer pump I use to pump fuel out of the jerries to the fuel tank) direct connection from the container to the IP and see if the same fuel delivery symptoms are happening just to be sure or to discount the filter head but honestly the sooner you get rid of that Nissan OEM filter the better.

If you could lay your hands on perhaps some trucks filter housings (Tatra 148 had a nice one if I remember correctly with primer built in...) Even that Isuzu filter housing you've linked should be fine. Its a pity you are located so far away from Bratislava otherwise I'd get in touch with some of my mates to help you out.

Regards

 

I reckon your primer is shagged you can fit a lift pump pre primer yo mask it or replace it the water trap can suck air from the drain tap aswell

 

Diaphragm in the primer is ruptured I reckon. If it's been leaking air for a while the timing piston may of worn out from lack of lubrication. When the Mofset dies the engine won't run at all.

 

Thanks guys for the tip. It showed up really quickly and I was thinking that this will be more like an electrical issue in pump ECM. Until then ICV% were just as usual ~75% idle with quite normal power I was used to. If the timing piston would be worn should that translate to lower ICV%?

Anyway I'll ask mr. Nissan how much they charge for the new primer and get it. Or, maybe I go the Racor 245 + Carter P4601 way seeing that in Oz is the thing for ~$260 AUD

 

Maybe as a test run your pump straight from a bottle no filter. A full primer setup here with water drain is around $300

 

The $300 sets me in the Racor + Carter territory. I'll know on Monday how much they charge here.

 

I've found two interesting sites searching for the primer:
http://www.stardiesel.com/en/c-filter-isuzu-ref-8-97287518-1.html
Filter Top (Nissan ZD30) (10mm Pipe)
Still have to figure out the price at the dealer, expecting ridiculous one though.

 

I'll replace the primer. I don't have a pump that will supply fuel to the IP so skipping the filter assy would be quite difficult. If the new primer won't help, then it is time for pulling some codes from the IPs ecu. Researched it and it can be done with a k-line cable like this one: VAG OBDII USB KKL COM 409.1 Interface VAG409 CH340 Chip for VW Audi Skoda Seat Sale - Banggood.com. Images and software in attachment, I'll give that a try. To unzip the software, you need to remove the .zip extension of the files. I had to split them to 90kB before posting, sorry for that.

Info from other forum:

You can use your VAUX-COM to communicate with the PSG5 pump. You have to make the wiring for yourself, since the communication pin is not connected to the wiring loom of the car.

The PSG5 pump has a 9 pins connector, and pin #9 is the K-Line.

So, you have to make an auxilary cable, with a simple 16 pin OBD connector, and you have to connect the pin #7 of the OBD connector, with the pin #9 of the PSG5 connector.

What we used to do, is to drill a hole on the plastic connector of the psg pump, and connect a wire to the pin #9 of the PSG pump.

Then, you can query the list of fault codes stored in the PSG5 pump.

But please note the following:

You cannot see any measuring blocks information, not even with the KTS software.

All you got is fault codes. By the way, here is the list, not too much.

00080 Fuel quantity solenoid valve, output stage error
00081 Fuel quantity solenoid valve, fault
00082 Angle sensor/IWZ system, fault
00083 Angle sensor/IWZ system, fault
00084 Control unit temp sensor, maximum exceeded
00085 Control unit temp sensor, not in range
00086 Battery voltage, not in range
00087 Timing device control, permanent control deviation
00088 Fuel-quantity solenoid valve, error
00089 Injection begin, error
00090 Speed signal, error
00091 Speed signal, error
00092 CAN-BUS, error
00093 CAN-BUS, error
00094 Selftest, error

And if you surely know, that the PSG pump is faulty, what are you going to do? You cannot repair that by yourself, because for repairing these, you need an EPS-815, or similar BOSCH special equipment.

Most of the time, the IWZ angle sensor, or the PSG control unit is, what causes the fault. Or there is some mechanical damage to the pump.

What I recommend you, is to send the PSG pump to a reliable diesel service center, where they can test the unit with the EPS-815.

Let's see, what they say. If they are telling you, that the pump is OK, then you have to find the problem in the car.

 

Gravity supply I.P.

I'll replace the primer. I don't have a pump that will supply fuel to the IP so skipping the filter assy would be quite difficult. If the new primer won't help, then it is time for pulling some codes from the IPs ecu. Researched it and it can be done with a k-line cable like this one.

What if you try a gravity supply direct to the I.P. Connect a supply line to the bottom of a clean fuel supply (20 ltr drum lifted high )and it will self bleed as the air will rise .

keep it simple .

 

Mate, I recently had air leak issues as well. This was after a fuel filter change.

It seems that my fuel system was borderline in a couple of places. As I disturbed the system during the fuel filter change, i was unable to get thing to seal up again. As I was chasing leaks, I disturbed other areas which caused a couple more issues.

Patrol went in for service running fine.
Came out running like a dog with....
1- Metal fitting from the IP return fuel line was loose and then subsequently rattled completely out. Tightened it.
2 - Some pitting corrosion where the fuel filter mates with the housing. (I think this seal is ok but will change the housing soon, maybe to an after market filter assembly)
3 - Tiny o ring in the water drain tap (bottom of filter) leaking. (replaced it)
4 - Nissan hose clamps have compressed groves in the fuel hoses so they no longer tighten completely. (Replaced with other hose clamps).
5 - There is still a tiny air leak before the filter somewhere.
(looking through clear hose there is a 0.5mm bubble every 2 seconds). Maybe this is ok or I need to track it down.
But she now runs fine again. I hope I haven't damage the IP though.

I am not sure it is relevant to your issue but may help.

After reading a lot of info on here and else where I think I will fit a lift pump (and also change out the fuel lines while at it).

 

I've ran clear hoses and I can see no leaks before filter, just a big air pocket after some time after the filter. I checked the things you mention and all seems well in the engine bay. I need to replace the cracked hoses, but none of them are cracked so the air can enter the system. Waiting for a quote for a new primer from the dealer right now ...

and the quote is $400 pump, holder, filter, ... ok, this will be one of the more expensive choices.

 

ask him if he'll give you a discount for two. I need one......

 

I'd buy one maybe from the links I posted above - Diesel Central AU. I am waiting for the response from Italy - Star Diesel.

 

I think that mob is just the "middleman", they get the stuff from Chinese warehouse for peanuts, you can probably get it yourself directly via Ebay.

That stuff about making your own scanner is a good stuff indeed.

Good luck

Regards

 

Yes, it seems he's a man in the middle, the Chinese warehouse quotes $30, not sure how long the pump will last, but for proceeding further with the diagnosis its fine.

The program I found seems to be capable of reading errors from ECU. Just needs a K-line cable.

 

Here ==>
Scan K-Line FOR Auto SEAT Volkswagen OBD2 OBDII USB KKL VAGCOM 409.1 Cable | eBay Free shipping to Slovakia for $6.51.

If you are going to make your own then document everything, I'm kind of unsure how is that done because according to the infor you've posted earlier you just need 1 pin to comunicate with the pump so if I understand correctly as long as you have USB to serial interface wired correctly thats all you really need. I use at work similar device to connect to coach/bus ESC controller and it has only 4 cables coming out of the box power +, power - and K-line wire and L-line, the other side has RS232 cable plug/wire to connect to a PC. If I remember correctly see the picture attached.



Full OBDII plug is not really required in this case just correctly wired interface USB/serial is my understanding something like this ==>

FT232 USB Cable USB to TTL Serial Cable Adapter FTDI Chipset Computer Cable | eBay

Unless the datalink connection is required as well so extra 2 wires connected as well for CAN H and CAN L. Here is a pinout OBD2 to K-line

OBD2 to RS232 scheme

Regards

 

I have similar cable or might be exactly the same on the way for the same price. Yes, it seems you need only the pin #9 from the VP44 ECM and pos/neg to power up the ecm to read the data with the attached program. Wanted to use the ecutalk cable because of the included FTDI but it is missing the pin 7 I think, so I need to swap the pins in the connector. Might be an option though.

 

Indeed that's what I was thinking earlier as I have that cable too. However there are only 6 wires there and it appears that one still needs some kind of interface to K-line aka ELM327 as FTDI USB interface itself is just a simple serial converter. I'm not really sure unless the wire in question is the TXD yellow as the green wire which is cut on mine is RTS. Something tells me that ECUtalk cable isn't compatible. Perhaps it would be if it plugged to another controller/interface which has K-line support.

I'd probably just hack full spec OBD2 to USB cable.

or I actually found an DIY scheme ==> USB K-line adapter scheme

Regards

 

any of you guys in europe looking for a primer get on www.partsouq.com put in your vin and find the part i looked last night a complete primer setup was around $200 us or just the primer itself about $100

 

any of you guys in europe looking for a primer get on www.partsouq.com put in your vin and find the part i looked last night a complete primer setup was around $200 us or just the primer itself about $100

Ordered the primer from UAE, for $100 US it's not that bad and will be delivered by fedex in 3-5 days. The stuff from China warehouse might take up to 60 days to arrive and I still save some cash for a pump rebuild if needed.

Indeed that's what I was thinking earlier as I have that cable too. However there are only 6 wires there and it appears that one still needs some kind of interface to K-line aka ELM327 as FTDI USB interface itself is just a simple serial converter. I'm not really sure unless the wire in question is the TXD yellow as the green wire which is cut on mine is RTS. Something tells me that ECUtalk cable isn't compatible. Perhaps it would be if it plugged to another controller/interface which has K-line support.

I'd probably just hack full spec OBD2 to USB cable.

Regards

That is why I ordered the VAG KKL cable, which supports K-line.

 

Thanks for that, couldn't find that by myself. Merchant in UAE