Great find. Much easier than the dual setup I went with. Does this mean it comes with a Vac pump?

 

Looking at the photo's on their web site no VAC pump TD42-4-2l-diesel.

 

Wow! up to 390 Amp. There should be no reason why one of these wouldn't fit a ZD30?????

 

Yes they go quite high.

I limited mine to a 270 amp due to my battery. DCS rate the max charge rate to 200amps. I calculated out what my truck would use from startup, then went as close to 200amps as I could.

 

Very nice. Ive been considering the m2k alternators for awhile now.

@Dan789. How have you mounted your battery?. Im in the middle of installing 2x 200ah DCS batteries in the rear of a GU. Using an ECS off-road battery tray.

 

Very nice. Ive been considering the m2k alternators for awhile now.

@Dan789. How have you mounted your battery?. Im in the middle of installing 2x 200ah DCS batteries in the rear of a GU. Using an ECS off-road battery tray.

I purchased a the DCS 200 amp Lithium battery and battery tray. Link below;

https://www.deepcyclesystems.com.au/product/dcs-12v-200ah-slim-line-lithium-ion/

I also purchased the battery tray for it to sit in, of which has changed since I purchased mine.

https://www.deepcyclesystems.com.au/product/dcs-200ah-lithium-slim-line-battery-tray/

I have a Titan draw system at the moment in the back of my wagon which I have modified. I cut the draws in half and mounted one on top of the other on the drivers side. Then where the wings would normally go above the wheel arch, mounted the battery tray here. Two reasons mounting where I did. Size. This definitely would not fit under my bonnet, and I didn't want it there anyway. Second, heat. Lithium batteries don't like the heat, so mounting it in the cab of the truck keeps the temperature where it is optimal for a lithium battery.

I then made some timber surrounds and ran through this to a fuse setup of each positive lug. I then ran 2 x 000 cable down through the floor and along the chassis to another 500 amp fuse at the front, of which I joined all of the electrical too. The main reason I did this was doing research on my winch, it can draw near 500 amps on pull. Understanding that my car should be running when using the winch, I didn't want to take the risk of a fire or anything.

I was also able to mount my inverter on top of the battery. This helps with using a short run from the battery, so near zero loss to the inverter. This again was completed with 000 cable.

I also upgraded my cable from the alternator using 000 cable to the fuse in the engine bay, of which then runs to the back of the car in 000 cable. Something else not generally paid attention too is the negative. I have put 000 earths everywhere on the truck to ensure no issues (battery to body, body to chassis, chassis to engine, gearbox to engine etc..)

Battery sits behind the panel where the fuses are mounted. An busbar bent at 90 with bolts through the timber into te back of the fuses (Two on the left side are 250 amps) Seat pushes back up to cover this section.

Back side where I mounted the solar charger

Rear drawer system to show how it is hidden. (Excuse the mess in the back, not normally like this.)

 

That alternator will suck a lot of engine power at full output. You can calculate the power it requires by multiplying 12 volts times 270 amps divided by 746 watts per horsepower. The actual horsepower drain would be higher because of inefficiency Xin the alternator and the drive belts also, high output alternators typically have very poor output at low electrical loads then stock alternators.
router login\
watch IPL

 

high output alternators typically have very poor output at low electrical loads then stock alternators.

I thought brushless addressed that..

 

It doesn't appear to be water-cooled, so you're also dumping a lot of waste heat into the engine bay. Still, it's probably more efficient than a dual alternator setup

 

They are made from Denco parts it seems hence why they can do the high output using the brushless technology system. Being brushless the low current draw issue i believe or what i have researched so far suggests for this type of high output alternator doesn't suffer the same losses as a high output brushed alternator. The brushless also run way cooler for the same current draw so water cooling isn't really required unless you are using more than half the amp capacity of the brushless alternator continuously. They don't get carbon sprayed around the commutator and the losses from that system hence the very high output capacity at low rpm.

Maybe one of our electrical engineer type dudes on here might give us a better explanation of the why's. As i am getting confused by the different excitation systems brushless can use these being self excited but nothing else.

 

Only concern I'd have here is getting bogged in mud might have just gotten a whole lot more expensive.


As for sucking power from the engine, I think it's a mute point... if you need to put 2kwh into your battery, it's either 2kw for 1 hour or 200w for 10 hours. Same amount of power either way. But being brushless is great, efficiency and reliability!

 

As for sucking power from the engine, I think it's a mute point... if you need to put 2kwh into your battery, it's either 2kw for 1 hour or 200w for 10 hours. Same amount of power either way. But being brushless is great, efficiency and reliability!

Depends. If you're at/near GCM in hilly country, the larger power loss would be more noticeable.

 

@dkril true. I've seen on small cars that they have a microswitch on the accelerator that kills power to the alternator and AC compressor, could do something like that perhaps.

 

My Falcon has that. When the go pedal hits the floor, A/C shuts off, and stays off until ~10 seconds after you lift off. Not sure if it effects the alternator.

 

I wonder if pricing would be any better with a group buy. Might be hard to get numbers so close to xmas though.

 

Its a bit of a mute point really the power drain on the engine especially a worked TD42, 6 to 8hp of engine power isn't going to make a lot of difference you can actually feel. And it is, what it is, if you have large electrical draw requirements. From a bit of research our std alternator if it could actually maintain 80 amps at cruise speed 2400rpm which it wont, with proposed internal losses electrically and heat it would be approaching 2hp without belt friction losses, which can be as high as .25 hp on our 12mm V belt if set too tight and too deep in the groove on a rusty worn steel pulley which is typical. The SBC 270 will probably approach 250amps at 2400 cruise revs from the data i can find on Denco brushless. And its internal electrical losses are significantly less even if we add a heat loss component of .1 the data suggests .01% because they run cooler than brushed so we are now maybe approaching 4.3 hp best. Then V belt losses but the SBC is supplied with a anodised aluminium pulley which has significantly less friction loss.

As an example to put this in perspective the std fluid coupling fan when free wheeling suggests 1.5 hp and above 8hp locked and even more than that if you are using a fancy fan most seem to use now days on a TD42T. I cannot really suggest you can feel the fluid coupling fan kick in when driving but you certainly can feel the AC clutch kick in on a hot day. The big AC 7 piston pump we use can really drain well above 10hp on a hot day when kicking in on a big head pressure r34 gas can have. For me i use 2x 16 inch Spal fans so 40 amps full power at something like 4000cfm including losses, so that's about 0.6 hp which is less engine power drain on the alternator than the mechanical fan free wheeling. I actually have 4 spal fans so 1.2 hp when all 4 connect which rarely happens except in traffic jams in Brisbane or beach work, which is still less than a fluid coupling mechanical fan free wheeling.. Maybe that's why OEM's now exclusively use electric fans in modern cars. But the TD42 being a bit of a kettle may not be wise using electric fans without serious mods to cooling.

 

Its a bit of a mute point really the power drain on the engine especially a worked TD42, 6 to 8hp of engine power isn't going to make a lot of difference you can actually feel. And it is, what it is, if you have large electrical draw requirements. From a bit of research our std alternator if it could actually maintain 80 amps at cruise speed 2400rpm which it wont, with proposed internal losses electrically and heat it would be approaching 2hp without belt friction losses, which can be as high as .25 hp on our 12mm V belt if set too tight and too deep in the groove on a rusty worn steel pulley which is typical. The SBC 270 will probably approach 250amps at 2400 cruise revs from the data i can find on Denco brushless. And its internal electrical losses are significantly less even if we add a heat loss component of .1 the data suggests .01% because they run cooler than brushed so we are now maybe approaching 4.3 hp best. Then V belt losses but the SBC is supplied with a anodised aluminium pulley which has significantly less friction loss.

As an example to put this in perspective the std fluid coupling fan when free wheeling suggests 1.5 hp and above 8hp locked and even more than that if you are using a fancy fan most seem to use now days on a TD42T. I cannot really suggest you can feel the fluid coupling fan kick in when driving but you certainly can feel the AC clutch kick in on a hot day. The big AC 7 piston pump we use can really drain well above 10hp on a hot day when kicking in on a big head pressure r34 gas can have. For me i use 2x 16 inch Spal fans so 40 amps full power at something like 4000cfm including losses, so that's about 0.6 hp which is less engine power drain on the alternator than the mechanical fan free wheeling. I actually have 4 spal fans so 1.2 hp when all 4 connect which rarely happens except in traffic jams in Brisbane or beach work, which is still less than a fluid coupling mechanical fan free wheeling.. Maybe that's why OEM's now exclusively use electric fans in modern cars. But the TD42 being a bit of a kettle may not be wise using electric fans without serious mods to cooling.

Agree Pete. This is the reason I had to search for a bigger alternator. My electric fans at the moment draw nearly 50 amps when running. I contemplated changing to a serpentine belt to get a higher output alternator. Changing the pulley's was the hardest part of all of it. Found this and didn't need too.

As I run an electric water pump, I don't need the viscous hub and fan, therefore don't require the pulley. This gives me a good wrap of around 80% on the alternator pulley, of which help with the drive of it. Just something to be mindful of I suppose.

 

There's another consideration for the long term - how would consistently running the alternator plus all the other load (AC, pump, fan ect) affect the service life of the belt, pullies and tensioner? I know my (genuine) auto tensioner doesn't like running my alternatator under high load (charging aux battery with DC/DC bypassed) on cold mornings.

 

There's another consideration for the long term - how would consistently running the alternator plus all the other load (AC, pump, fan ect) affect the service life of the belt, pullies and tensioner? I know my (genuine) auto tensioner doesn't like running my alternatator under high load (charging aux battery with DC/DC bypassed) on cold mornings.

 

I can't answer the above. What I can say is that I don't have an auto tensioner to worry about in my 4.2. Long term, the alternator should be fine if there is plenty of airflow. Heat kills these, as I can attest too with previous cheaper alternators. This alternator has big fans front and back in it. Plenty of airflow.
As for consistently running it, the alternator is running full time when the engine is cranked and running. It will never disengage, just ramp up and down when the power is required to run electrical items and charge batteries.

 

By constantly running it I mean running it on load, around 40% (108A) or more, as the I'm sure one would only install one of these if you have extended heavy current draw to justify it.

I'm yet to hear of a consumer vehicle alternator that completely mechanically disengages when the engine is running..

 

Mercedes a few years back before the diesel in cars was banned in the EU, they had commissioned a diesel straight 6 that had brushless generator which is also the starter motor for silent seamless traffic stop starting the engine. It could also be set to disengage or not generate power so no load or very little load i believe. The engine was prototyped and tested with some interesting power torque values for very low fuel usage to try and beat future emission codes. Not to be alas, we will miss out on that diesel tech. But we will probably see the generator system in petrol cars in the future. maybe..

 

@Dan789

Would you have a number or email for Jim Impey. I'm in Victoria but noticed the address is a house so figured best to not just turn up.


Are you still happy with your alternator?

Cheers

 

Bit of a Bump.

Anyone else tried a m2k alternator yet?

 

So, giving a bit of an update on this alternator. It has been quite a ride with it. Bear with me on the story. Posting it for context. There was a solution for me for my setup. Probably not required for all though. I will put all of this into another post.

So after using this alt for a while, I had the same issues I had with my other alternators. Burnt out. This was not good, as spending $2k on an alt I was not expecting this. I contacted Jim and M2K about this and they were dumbfounded as they haven't had issues with alternators doing this, especially brand new alt's.
After some diagnosis, it was decided to send out a new regulator and brushes to fix it. This was a relatively easy process. Pulled the back cover off, used the soldering iron the remove the regulator and installed the brushes. Happy days, all working again.

I then embarked on a journey to the northerner state (Sunshine Coast) with my caravan in tow with my newly fixed alternator. Happy days, all working well. Driving along in 30 degree heat looking at the fact my truck was fully charged whilst running all of my additional electrics (Fans, pumps, air con etc..). I get around 600 km into my trip, then bang, the dreaded lights come on and no charge going into my battery and volts dropped down. ALT has gone again. This left me stranded in a Bunnings carpark in 30 degree weather changing out to the alt to install my cheapy 120 amp alt back in. That was not fun.

So I contacted them again and they were absolutey flabbergasted, more than last time. How can this occur to the same alt twice. There was some questions coming at me verging on blaming my setup for it and that I was driving too much heat into the alt, as they stated these should never burn out. Solution was to send the alt back to them so they could look at it and see what the issue was.

Now, addressing the heat issue. I stated that i was unsure how this could be the case, as the cheapy alt works at 100% for 100% of the time, whilst their alt was working around 80% for 30% of the time. I was having no issues with the cheapy, except it couldn't keep up with the required power of the truck when the twin fans turned on (40amp draw), whilst running the remainder of the truck.

Something to say as well about the cheapy. I purchased this in Alice Springs (so not so cheapy). It did the desert trip in 40+ temps, as well as the rest of this trip and back, along with driving around for a while. So as I said to them, how was a cheapy running at those percentages and temps, but there bomb proof alt couldn't. So they got around to fixing it and sent it back.

Not long after receiving mine back, my mates alt did the same thing. Same alt, same setup. Now the pressure was really on us due to having the same setup along with the same issue. Things got a little heated in our emails back and forth. Ultimately, they fixed his alt and sent it back. (week turnaround each time mind you).

My mate came down to my house recently, around a 400km trip. When he arrived, he made a comment about his car blinking off and coming back on instantly. Only reason he noticed is because the stereo went through a boot up phase. This was quite strange, as mine had been doing this for quite some time, except when mine did this it is far worse. Mine occurred the first time at 100km/h, except it didn't just shut down the stereo, it rebooted my auto computer (Aftermarket). This then came back on in neutral. Now not wanting to jam it back into drive, I then had to pull over, put into park then into drive so I could take off. This was not scary at all.

Part of my query to M2K was the fact I never saw 200 amps at idle like they suggested their alt could do. They suggested that I do volt test at the back of the alt. Well, this was very surprising. Turns out that the regulator on the back of the alt was putting out 14.9v when the battery was full.

This got me to thinking and researching.

I looked at DCS website and the battery specs that I have. Wow, max charge is 14.6v. I started further research into Lithium batteries connected directly to alt. There was nothing written in the car world about this. What came up was plenty written in the boating world about it.

So to make it not too compliacted (as it got quite complicated when researching), the issue all along was the high volts tripping the BMS on the Lithium battery, making it shut down for a millisecond. When this shuts down, the high volts from the alt has no where to go, therefore comes back and in short burns out the internals of the alt.

As I had a trip coming up where I needed to drive my truck, I couldn't wait for a turnaround of 8 weeks. I had to come up with a solution.

More to follow....

 

The solution.

Take it out of their hands. Fix the issue myself.

Before this goes any further, I have NO affiliation with the place listed below. I paid full retail for every product purchased. I am just listing so people understand what it is and the cost of completing a setup like this. If I have overstepped the forum rules by listing what I have below, moderators let me know and I will remove the information not allowed.

I decided to go with a Balmar external regulator. These are used on boats for their setups. Balmar from my research a well respected brand in the boating world. I am not into boats, so have never heard of them prior to my research. The item I went with is MC-618-H - Balmar. There are a number of benefits to this, of which is listed right throughout the web. Most new cars nowadays have technology like this built into their computer setup. This make our "dumb" alternator "smart" in many ways.

After doing quite a bit of research into using a Lithium with an alternator, this was the most recommended product. There are others out there, just not as user friendly.

So, the install. To do this I needed to remove the internal regulator on the alt and complete some wiring internally. After contacting M2K with my intentions, they sent me this to help with removing the internal regulator and setting it up for the external regulator.

I didn't get a shot of the alt before installing, but installed in the truck it now looks like the below. On the back of the alternator you can see a black box which is the Balmar alternator protection module.

I installed the regulator onto the crossmember above the glovebox, behind the blank panel. (Wiring not finished yet. This will be tidied up later)

I also at the time have purchased the SG200 unit that makes it into a network. This comes with the gauge below which I installed into my rear draw system.

I also purchased the Bluetooth module that plugs into the SG200. This allows me to complete the setting up process much easier and the monitoring process from my phone or an app on any device (Apple or Android). Image below is of my truck just after starting at idle.

Physical installation of all this took me around 1 day. Was a little complicated in sections, but for the most part easy to complete.

Now, the benefits of this external regulator are great, well above what the "dumb" regulator would do. It has 3 charge settings on it, similar to a 240v charger, bulk, absorption and float. At first I was a little skeptical on the charge profile settings. Bulk I have set at 14.4v. This will run for 18 minutes, then do a test and either go into float setting or continue in bulk until the network sense either the battery is full via volts, or via SOC.
Next is absorption, which is set at 13.8v. This again does similar to bulk.
Next is float, which is set at 13.4v.

I was a little worried about the float setting. Being so low, I didn't think it would work as it should. I have done around 500km since installation. It as been in float many times, with my alternator supply enough current to keep everything running that was required, including when my fans come on cyclic.

I have also installed the Balmar alternator protection module. Alternator Protection Modules - Balmar This will help if the BMS ever shuts down again with the high voltage spike.

So, I will list the location where I purchased and the cost. This was not cheap, but neither was my battery or alternator. If this is not allowed, moderators let me know and I will remove the costing below.

Alternator Protection Module - $123.70
Balmar Alternator Protection Module - 12 Volt

Balmar MC - 618 $605.60
Balmar MC-618 12V Multi-Stage Alternator Regulator with Harness

Balmar SG200 with display - $410.90
Balmar Smartgauge Battery Monitor Kit, 12V-48V

Balmar Bluetooth - $99.00
Balmar Smartgauge Bluetooth Gateway

Balmar SG Smartlink Cable - $99.00
Balmar SG200 SmartLink Communications Cable - 10 Metre


Total of this setup - $1338.20 (Does not include alternator or battery)


Here are my thoughts on the system.

Pro's
1. Fuel economy. When battery is charged, the alternator shuts down and removes drag on the engine
2. Full control over what the alt puts out and when it puts it out
3. Alt can be saved from heat via the setting which reduces output based upon temperature
4. Longevity of battery due to the charging profile of the system
5. Able to charge Lithium safely from an alternator
6. Belt load protection on startup. Can delay the field output for a certain duration to save belt wear when the belt is cold
7. This can be installed as a battery monitoring system instead of using a standalone battery monitoring system
8. Many others I haven't listed

Cons
1. Expense. This is a very expensive modification
2. Alternator modification. There are works required to the alt you can do yourself. If you don't do it yourself, this can be taken to an auto electrician to do it for you. More expense.
3. Additional electronics in the truck
4. Installation. Again, this can be completed by yourself, otherwise an auto sparky will need to do it. More expense.
5. If you already have a dual battery system or battery monitoring system, this can be a double up on it.
6. Probably more that I haven't listed. I haven't seen any yet though

Additionally, I haven't changed the standard Nissan wiring loom for this. If this alternator fails, I can purchase a standard alternator and install it. The standard plug is still there next to this setup.

Now, this is not for everyone, or not for many, or not for anyone. I just wanted to give an update on the alternator and the issues I had and the solutions I used. I put to much time into installing the Lithium battery charging of the alternator that I wasn't going back to a standard setup with a DC to DC charge. Besides that, I would have had to purchase all of that, which would have run up a few $$ as well.

I am about to do another trip to the Sunshine Coast in QLD (1500km one way). I will have a better understanding of how this goes when I get there and get home. I am really hoping this fixes my 12v conundrums, as I really don't want to revert back to the standard setup.

So if you stuck around this long, thanks for reading.

 

@Dan789 Really appreciate the update, I was getting close to pulling the trigger on an m2k alternator. And with a similar setup battery wise I would of been in big trouble. Were m2k pretty happy with your solution?.

 

The solution.

Take it out of their hands. Fix the issue myself.

Before this goes any further, I have NO affiliation with the place listed below. I paid full retail for every product purchased. I am just listing so people understand what it is and the cost of completing a setup like this. If I have overstepped the forum rules by listing what I have below, moderators let me know and I will remove the information not allowed.

I decided to go with a Balmar external regulator. These are used on boats for their setups. Balmar from my research a well respected brand in the boating world. I am not into boats, so have never heard of them prior to my research. The item I went with is MC-618-H - Balmar. There are a number of benefits to this, of which is listed right throughout the web. Most new cars nowadays have technology like this built into their computer setup. This make our "dumb" alternator "smart" in many ways.

After doing quite a bit of research into using a Lithium with an alternator, this was the most recommended product. There are others out there, just not as user friendly.

So, the install. To do this I needed to remove the internal regulator on the alt and complete some wiring internally. After contacting M2K with my intentions, they sent me this to help with removing the internal regulator and setting it up for the external regulator.

View attachment 557041

I didn't get a shot of the alt before installing, but installed in the truck it now looks like the below. On the back of the alternator you can see a black box which is the Balmar alternator protection module.

View attachment 557042

I installed the regulator onto the crossmember above the glovebox, behind the blank panel. (Wiring not finished yet. This will be tidied up later)

View attachment 557043

I also at the time have purchased the SG200 unit that makes it into a network. This comes with the gauge below which I installed into my rear draw system.

View attachment 557044

I also purchased the Bluetooth module that plugs into the SG200. This allows me to complete the setting up process much easier and the monitoring process from my phone or an app on any device (Apple or Android). Image below is of my truck just after starting at idle.

View attachment 557045


Physical installation of all this took me around 1 day. Was a little complicated in sections, but for the most part easy to complete.

Now, the benefits of this external regulator are great, well above what the "dumb" regulator would do. It has 3 charge settings on it, similar to a 240v charger, bulk, absorption and float. At first I was a little skeptical on the charge profile settings. Bulk I have set at 14.4v. This will run for 18 minutes, then do a test and either go into float setting or continue in bulk until the network sense either the battery is full via volts, or via SOC.
Next is absorption, which is set at 13.8v. This again does similar to bulk.
Next is float, which is set at 13.4v.

I was a little worried about the float setting. Being so low, I didn't think it would work as it should. I have done around 500km since installation. It as been in float many times, with my alternator supply enough current to keep everything running that was required, including when my fans come on cyclic.

I have also installed the Balmar alternator protection module. Alternator Protection Modules - Balmar This will help if the BMS ever shuts down again with the high voltage spike.

So, I will list the location where I purchased and the cost. This was not cheap, but neither was my battery or alternator. If this is not allowed, moderators let me know and I will remove the costing below.

Alternator Protection Module - $123.70
Balmar Alternator Protection Module - 12 Volt

Balmar MC - 618 $605.60
Balmar MC-618 12V Multi-Stage Alternator Regulator with Harness

Balmar SG200 with display - $410.90
Balmar Smartgauge Battery Monitor Kit, 12V-48V

Balmar Bluetooth - $99.00
Balmar Smartgauge Bluetooth Gateway

Balmar SG Smartlink Cable - $99.00
Balmar SG200 SmartLink Communications Cable - 10 Metre


Total of this setup - $1338.20 (Does not include alternator or battery)


Here are my thoughts on the system.

Pro's
1. Fuel economy. When battery is charged, the alternator shuts down and removes drag on the engine
2. Full control over what the alt puts out and when it puts it out
3. Alt can be saved from heat via the setting which reduces output based upon temperature
4. Longevity of battery due to the charging profile of the system
5. Able to charge Lithium safely from an alternator
6. Belt load protection on startup. Can delay the field output for a certain duration to save belt wear when the belt is cold
7. This can be installed as a battery monitoring system instead of using a standalone battery monitoring system
8. Many others I haven't listed

Cons
1. Expense. This is a very expensive modification
2. Alternator modification. There are works required to the alt you can do yourself. If you don't do it yourself, this can be taken to an auto electrician to do it for you. More expense.
3. Additional electronics in the truck
4. Installation. Again, this can be completed by yourself, otherwise an auto sparky will need to do it. More expense.
5. If you already have a dual battery system or battery monitoring system, this can be a double up on it.
6. Probably more that I haven't listed. I haven't seen any yet though

Additionally, I haven't changed the standard Nissan wiring loom for this. If this alternator fails, I can purchase a standard alternator and install it. The standard plug is still there next to this setup.

Now, this is not for everyone, or not for many, or not for anyone. I just wanted to give an update on the alternator and the issues I had and the solutions I used. I put to much time into installing the Lithium battery charging of the alternator that I wasn't going back to a standard setup with a DC to DC charge. Besides that, I would have had to purchase all of that, which would have run up a few $$ as well.

I am about to do another trip to the Sunshine Coast in QLD (1500km one way). I will have a better understanding of how this goes when I get there and get home. I am really hoping this fixes my 12v conundrums, as I really don't want to revert back to the standard setup.

So if you stuck around this long, thanks for reading.

No worries with mentioning suppliers in that context, we actually have an old thread where people can recommend a supplier they have used.
Well done on the job mate.

 

@Dan789 Really appreciate the update, I was getting close to pulling the trigger on an m2k alternator. And with a similar setup battery wise I would of been in big trouble. Were m2k pretty happy with your solution?.

They seemed satisfied that I was going with the solution. I have not sent them through the photos of what I have completed yet.

I have no doubt their alternator is a quality alternator. I will find out after I do 300k with this setup whether it works or not.

They have been pretty reasonable to deal with. I am not sure if they knew about the issue with Lithium batteries and their BMS shutting down, but once I noted it too them, they were agreeable with me that this would of been what fried the alternator twice. Not sure why their regulator was allowing such high voltages. I have not asked them this. I was just after a solution quickly so I could use my truck.

 

Any updates on this?
Have you thought about lowering the voltage a little more? 14v (at the battery) is 3.5v per cell which is still 100% charged. This limits the chance of a cell going over 3.65v, damaging it and having the BMS shutdown. You can actually still achieve 100% charge at 13.6v (3.4v per cell) but it takes a little longer which isn't an issue on trips). Those DCS batteries aren't cheap!

 

Yes, many updates.

Firstly, the external regulator is definitely the way to go. I would use this now on any older vehicle, if I was to purchase an older one again. Having the ability to control what the alternator does and when it does it certainly brings it closer to the modern vehicle. I now run the alternator on a 30 second delay on startup, have the bulk voltage set too 14.4 max., absorption at 14.2v and float at 14.0v. I have found with the way my truck uses the available power (Spal fans & water pump @ full noise can draw circa 80amps) that having the voltage under 14v when in float uses too much of the battery without the alternator compensating enough. I have also set the field output to max. 80% (circa 220amps), which still gives me plenty of available supply without driving the heat up too much in the alternator. Max. temp I am seeing is around 90 degrees at that 80% output when driving away from camp in low range and putting max power in. Charging in this fashion will help prolong the life of my alternator significantly.

In regards to my battery, I was having issues with it when starting my truck. I had to take this back to DCS where they did firmware updates on it. The issue was when turning the key from glow to start, the battery would shut down again(BMS). Whilst not an issue for the alternator at this point, as the truck isn't running, I was a little concerned for the battery and why it was occurring. After receiving it back from DCS, it still would occur. Their suggestion was that I was bordering on the edge of the BMS recogninsing a fault when drawing cranking amps due to potentially my starter being old and pulling so much, as they have had issue similar to this previously.
To fix the above problem, I came up with the idea of putting in another battery in parallel. So Iinvested in another 200amp battery, of which they gave me a significant discount due to all the issue I have had with the other battery. This was an older battery from the same batch as mine that they couldn't sell, as the couldn't rectify the issue of it not connecting to an iphone (doesn't worry me as i run android). This battery wasn't used and still had 0 cycles on it. Suite me, and so did the price. I have now installed these two batteries in a reconfigured setup int he rear of my truck. These two batteries sit next to each other on the floor of the boot behind the rear seats and are paralleled together to give me 400 amps and roughly 2000 cranking amps. I now have no issues with my 12v setup for the first time in many a year, and also can now use induction cooker, air fryer and my nespresso machine (Camping has stepped up a notch since my first time cooking suasages in a frypan over a butane cooker).

Once I have finished my rear setup I will put some photos in to show the changes and the location, as it works extremly well.

This is not setup for the feint of heart. I have lightend my bank account by approx. $10-$12k into this 12v system over the course of the last 5 years to deevelop & try to solve my issue. Yes, I understand it is an issue I created, but I don't like to follow the norm nor listen to what everyone on Youtube is trying to sell me (&^%arc rubbish). I used too, but I am far more educated now on these issues.

Is there a simpler way to do this. Yes. You can stick to the traditional DC to DC charger and charge at around 40 amps. You can also run solar into it and help to charge at around 10 amps. For the path I went down in other areas (Electric fans, electric water pump), that type of system in my eye wasn't going to cut it. I wanted something that could cater for the requirement there, charge at a high rate (200amps+) and also give me what I needed when I want to go camping.

 

These two batteries sit next to each other on the floor of the boot behind the rear seats and are paralleled together to give me 400 amps and roughly 2000 cranking amps. I now have no issues with my 12v setup for the first time in many a year,

Thanks for the update. Sounds like you have the same battery set up as me now. 2x200ah dcs slimlines. Ive had zero issues with mine cranking, so I expect you will be fine now. I used an "ec offroad" mount that has the batteries laying flat ontop of each other. And just running some thick copper bars to join them.


So far my factory(or similar) alternator is doing a remarkable job keeping them charged. I did upgrade the wiring to the alt though. But I doubt it would keep up with your higher draw with the fans/pump. Still keen on your upgraded alternator but for now ill stick with what I have until it dies.

 

Good to hear all is well with your setup.

I was going to put them on top of each other, but with the way I am completing my rear setup, it worked really well to have them next to each other.

I made my own cradle for the out of 25mm angle. They lay on their side with the connections facing the rear seats. I have now removed these as I am making a sleeping setup in the back so I could get rid of the roof top tent weight. I connected mine with 95mm cable, as they were to far apart for the busbar to join them. Good that you could do this. Most secure way of connecting them to allow for large power between them.

I also upgraded the power supply to 75mm square from the alternator the the connecting point that runs through to the batteries. In fact, I have upgraded as much as I could. 50mm to the glow plug line, 75mm to the starter etc.. I figure that larger is always better in this instance.

In regard to my alternator, if I was to go down this path again I would try and spend the money on changing my belt setup to a serpentine from the v and look to purchase a Mechman alternator. With 400amps of input on our setups, Mechman can supply alternators at this output and higher. The way I figure is that if you get a high output alternator and run it at 40% load, then this will last longer than an alternator at 95% output. Not complaining about the alternator now, just would be the same price option in my opinion. I am probably going to do this, as running one belt around everything in the future appeals to me.

 

In regard to my alternator, if I was to go down this path again I would try and spend the money on changing my belt setup to a serpentine from the v

Ive often thought about this myself, would be less potential for slippage. Are you still running the standard power steering pump or have you gone electric for that already? as that would be one less thing to run a belt around.

 

Currently running with the standard pump. I don't have any slippage on this. My power steering belt is quite long, as it wraps the crank /power steering pump / endless air pump. The endless air sits underneath the power steering but at the bottom of the engine. I am toying with the idea of removing this and going to one maybe 2 of the ARB twin compressors, as I have lots of power to drive them. I don't like to sit around and wait 1/2 an hour to pump up my 37" tyres, so hence my thoughts on it.

I am wanting to go a PSC ram for my steering to help turn the bigger tyres I have on there now. I am contemplating a separate system for this with an electric pump as my Hydroboost for the brakes comes off the standard power steering and am not sure that the pressure in the system is enough to run steering, brakes & steering assist. Alternatively, I have been looking at their pumps which do approx. 1600-1700psi. I will see when I get the pulley conversion completed, as I am not sure that the v belt will operate well with this.

On the alternator, I was chewing through quite a number of belts. What this ended up being is that I removed a large part of the top alternator bracket to allow for the hose to come out of the side of the diesel performance thermostat housing delete and run internal to the heater core. My mate came up with this when watching something on YouTube and had an epiphany around it. It was a simple fix. I just welded an angle across the top of it and braced it. I would recommend this mod to everyone anyway, whether touching the top bracket or not, as it stiffens the top bracket up and stops any harmonic noise through the standard bracket. No issues now. I did finish this and paint it black after these photo's as well.

I also created my own top bracket adjusting system which allows for the correct adjustment of the belt by using the bolt instead of a pry bar like I sued too. You can see the bolt sticking out in the photo below.