One way that can help work out what is causing the blue smoke (oil burning) is that valve stems will normally produce the most blue smoke when accelerating after a period of engine braking - ie when you accelerate after descending a hill it will pump out blue smoke and then will reduce quickly as power is applied. Rings will produce the most smoke on hard acceleration and usually get worse the harder you push it.

If it's valve stems seals, they can be done without removing the head - just need to make a tool to compress the valve springs and a fitting to pump compressed air into the cylinder (like a drilled out glow plug). Best done at TDC for each cylinder so the valve can't fall into the cylinder. I've done this before with good success, but not on a TD42. Might be some useful info in this forum or on YouTube.

 

I would think it would be prudent for the mechanic to do a compression test before suggesting to pull the engine down.

What is the spec of your PCV and catch can if any fitted? Excessive crankcase pressure would not help if that was evident.

What oil is used?

Has it ever had a good engine flush, such as the CEM product?

A few things to look at before I removed the head.

 

was the engine orig turbo. but those s/tops are good..where are you, aus.?.. i just bought a gu.. 4.2t. as to your problem, yup. id rip down re build.. is it using oil., rings blown.. no milkshake, bubbling rad. blown h/ gasket.. as a note, i have a s/duty, 4.2tdi. 700nm. 170kw... 280ks, no isues. no computer.. would love one in the niss.. good luck which ever you decide.

 

Originally non turbo, it's never used oil and i've religiously changed oil and filters every 5000km. But I noticed it had started needing more oil when all this trouble started.
Between oil changes it usually needs up to half a litre to top up.

 

Provent 200 catch can, I only ever used Delo 400 all these years, pcv (rocker cover breather?) feeds into the top of the Provent, out of the bottom and into turbo inlet between airbox and turbo.
And no, can't say i've ever given a flush with that stuff over the years.

 

Do you have a modified PCV to connect to the Provent with larger hose, or is it the standard size??

 

I think yes, I'll take a photo this avo but I'm not using Photobucket anymore so don't know if I'll be able to upload it.

 

@1TUFGQ we have our own photo uploader and resizer if needed now days. Just start a message the paperclip icon Attachment, it just works.

 

How to add pics from new members section.

https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/how-to-add-pictures-to-the-forum.410801/

 

 

 

That photo loading function is 10/10!. Long gone are the old days of bloody Photofukit .

 

Someone is bound to ask so before they do..I was doing something under the bonnet years ago and was using one of those lights bright lights and it fell over on top of the Provent...hence the melted top.

 

We have done this in other thread explaining the provent. To summarise the provent 200 is for a 200kw engine not rwkw. The very smart German engineers designed the inlet and out lets to accommodate 200kw's of diesel crankcase gasses. Now you have a warmed up TD and you have restricted the inlet and outlets with brass fittings with a nominal through hole of some 8mm when it should be 25mm. Nissan designed their crankcase breather with 16mm tube which was about right for 85kw engine for the original engine design.

Obviously you can do a better compromise here by using 25mm hose from provent to the rocker cover breather then reduce to the 16mm outlet using a fabricated thin wall steel tube reducer fitting. Then for the outlet side 25mm hose and 25mm fitting into the turbo inlet system. Or like most TD patrol enthusiastic that have a few clues will fabricate a much bigger more effective rocker cover oil separator with a 25mm outlet to complement the provent 200 catchcan.

I wont go into the why crankcase effective breathing is so important because you really should google it for a way better explanation.

 

Well 1TUFFGQ, I think this is how I would want to proceed.

Fix your Provent plumbing. Preferably with a new PCV on the valve cover, that has a 25mm outlet.

I would get a Cost Effective Maintenance engine flush. Delo is hard ro find, but there are a few others that work such as the Mobil Delvac.

Of course, a compression test tells a lot about engine condition. So I would have expected your mechanic to have one that before suggesting to do any engine work.

 

We have done this in other thread explaining the provent. To summarise the provent 200 is for a 200kw engine not rwkw. The very smart German engineers designed the inlet and out lets to accommodate 200kw's of diesel crankcase gasses. Now you have a warmed up TD and you have restricted the inlet and outlets with brass fittings with a nominal through hole of some 8mm when it should be 25mm. Nissan designed their crankcase breather with 16mm tube which was about right for 85kw engine for the original engine design.

Obviously you can do a better compromise here by using 25mm hose from provent to the rocker cover breather then reduce to the 16mm outlet using a fabricated thin wall steel tube reducer fitting. Then for the outlet side 25mm hose and 25mm fitting into the turbo inlet system. Or like most TD patrol enthusiastic that have a few clues will fabricate a much bigger more effective rocker cover oil separator with a 25mm outlet to complement the provent 200 catchcan.

I wont go into the why crankcase effective breathing is so important because you really should google it for a way better explanation.

We have done this in other thread explaining the provent. To summarise the provent 200 is for a 200kw engine not rwkw. The very smart German engineers designed the inlet and out lets to accommodate 200kw's of diesel crankcase gasses. Now you have a warmed up TD and you have restricted the inlet and outlets with brass fittings with a nominal through hole of some 8mm when it should be 25mm. Nissan designed their crankcase breather with 16mm tube which was about right for 85kw engine for the original engine design.

Obviously you can do a better compromise here by using 25mm hose from provent to the rocker cover breather then reduce to the 16mm outlet using a fabricated thin wall steel tube reducer fitting. Then for the outlet side 25mm hose and 25mm fitting into the turbo inlet system. Or like most TD patrol enthusiastic that have a few clues will fabricate a much bigger more effective rocker cover oil separator with a 25mm outlet to complement the provent 200 catchcan.

I wont go into the why crankcase effective breathing is so important because you really should google it for a way better explanation.

Thanks Oldmav, I followed your main thread a few years ago and recall it being very extensive, I'll do some homework and make those changes you recommended.

 

To speed things up is there a readily available PCV cover available that is a direct replacement with 25mm outlet?.

If I can proceed with what OldMav and GQshayne said above then I'm on the right track. Will still get a compression test done as well obviously, I don't expect that this process will fix the problem....but I need the Safari for trips to our hut on the West Coast of the South Island...and my son sees it as his hereditary entitlement.

 

To speed things up is there a readily available PCV cover available that is a direct replacement with 25mm outlet?.

I have looked a few times and can't find one.

 

But at least you have what you need already.

Somewhere.



Probably.

 

Well I wasn't expecting this!, started removing the IC and airbox and found this clean oil in the bottom of the airbox....how the hell did it get there??.

Turbo inlet looks dry & clean.

 

Also found these today, bought them from a forum vendor/member several years ago....should I use these and somehow adapt to 25mm hose?.

 

If the oil in your airbox is engine oil, and not airfilter oil from a K&N or Unifilter, then is suggests that you have excessive blowby.

Those adaptors appear to be to fit a smaller hose to the Provent, which is not what you need. Best to use the 25mm hose which fits the Provent directly. But as you know, you will need a new PCV on your valve cover.

 

Yep thanks mate, my son has a clever fabricator mate coming around on Sunday to have a nosy.
The air filter used by the guys who fitted the new turbo and dyno tuned it is a Ryco A1358RP.

Apologies for the delay in replies, i'm not on here much these days unfortunately.
A couple of questiois have been asked above and the time frame (kilometer wise) between the unusual smoke and oil splatter culminating in the UFI 18G turbo being cactus (8th April 2022)
AND the new turbo being fitted with the same results is only 7000 kilometers on road only (16th Dec 2023), towing the odd trailer and no 4wding.

 

That is an oiled filter according to what I have just read, like a Uifilter, so it has oil in it. If it has been oiled too much then it will drain back into your airbox. Common problem. The oil used on the filter SHOULD be different to engine oil.

 

Cheers...that sounds feasible, i'll sort the Provent and put in a new filter and take it from there, I appreciate all your input mate!

 

Update, I get the Safari back this weekend...my son's mate has modified everything to accommodate 25mm piping from the rocker cover breather to the Provent and in turn to the pre turbo inlet.

I'll post pics and obviously the first task will be to do an easy open road trip away to test for oil splatter out the back etc.

By all counts the rocker cover oem outlet was gunked up with carbon as well.

 

 

What happened to the lid of the Provent???

 

Ok, so you know those high output lamps with the single filament bulbs and wire prongs over the glass?, one of them fell over when I was doing something under the bonnet a few years ago.
I've now got LED lamps lol.

 

Nice bit of melt art there.

Pretty coloured hose. I used to use Ortac hose everywhere on boats until i found out its only for 88C. It goes hard and stiff in engine rooms very quickly. For that application i use single fabric braid hydraulic drain hose its much higher temp and doesn't go hard. Some hyd shops call it drum pump hose.