Hi Skegbudley

Are you suggesting this mod is not necessary on the CRD engines? (2007 onwards)

Our '08 has just clocked 110k and I was considering replacing glow plugs (with steel tipped) & fitting a timer!

Don't want to be doing anything unnecessary, if it's already a function of the CRD ECU!

Even if the timer mod is not required, what is the consensus on glow plug replacement? 100k?

Cheers
Andrew

 

I would fit the timer no matter what, there has been pages and pages written on this apart from this new thread in recent years, the reason I say that is because it is bloody cheap insurance, for $30 odd bucks you have full control over something that runs unnecessarily for 5 minutes when 20 seconds will do in our climate, especially if you are going the steel alternative.

 

Unfortunately, someone correct me (looking at glow circuit in CrD now) if I'm wrong, the CrD ZD30 ECM has the glow circuit fully under its control including the "DTC detec lines" which would mean that one has to live with MIL light coming on once the extra timer interferes with the circuit unless a correct relay (resistance wise) is fitted which would "mimick" the actual glow relay operation.

I'm not saying it is not doable but with the ECM checking the glow circuit control side subsystem (unlike in Di) fitting additional or substitution glow relay would be required as well.

Regards

 

Didn't Nissan update this terrible timing? Cars from 2006 came already with metal glow plugs (NGK Y-522J).

 

Hi mk96

I have a December 06 DI. I replaced mine put in steel tips after fitting my timer. The original ones were ceramic.

 

Thanks for this simplified version of this mate.

 

You're welcome. [emoji3]

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

 

Hello

With the Kemo timer, is the "glow time" fixed for all operating temps?

Thanks

 

The ecu will still control when it's needed or not as per normal. i.e. When the engine temperature is greater than 50 degC (from memory) the ecu will not complete a circuit to the timer unit to glow the plugs... and conversely, if the temperature calls for them to be on, the ecu completes the circuit and the timer is activated for however long you set it for.
When the glow light on your dash comes on, the timer will control it from there. No light, no glow.

 

Ed Zackery, so that earlier long thread was not wasted .


Biela, most of us have it set for around 20-30 seconds, you only really need it to start the engine on cold days, even though the GP circuit will still function when the engine cools a little from normal Op temp, you could switch off the GP circuit at that stage and the engine would start as per normal.

 

Hi Guys
Wiring this up today as i want to bring my timer inside the car and not in the engine bay,
With my original setup I had a override switch to switch between the Kemo and back to normal,if the Kemo failed, however with this set up i want to delete this switch.
In the future if the Kemo was to fail
1) how would you get back normal operation of the glow plug system
2) if you went back to normal operations the glow plugs would stay on way too long (metal tips)

Thx in Advance

 

As I've written in my build thread and the other gp timer thread I have a bypass plug where the timer is cut into the ECU, if it ever fails (and it hasn't in all the years it's been in) then I simply disconnect the timer at the plug and put in the bypass loop plug, this bypass loop could have one of those really tiny JayCar switches incorporated. I'll try to find a pic. it really does get confusing with so many threads on the same thing.

EDIT: This was my original setup, I have since deleted the switch as I'm not concerned about GP timer failure.

 

I suppose if worse come to worse you could disconnect the 2 wires (85 and relay),,,join them together to get the original system setup working the pull them apart to turn off the glow plugs after a while,

 

As said if you are worried about it you can put a separate switch in the line to manually turn it off if something did go wrong.

This is a pair of bypass plugs I keep in the glovebox for bypassing both JayCar unit and GP Timer in the event of a failure, been in the glovebox for bloody years unused. You could put a mini switch into the one for the GP circuit to manually turn off after starting in an emergency if you were worried about failure.

 

Very keen to do this to my rig, thanks for the write up mate. All looks quite straight forward. I have been practicing my soldering skills lately.

Question: On steps:
7. Locate GREEN wire with Black stripe from pin 111 on ECU connector.
8. Cut wire about 7cm from connector.
9. Solder and heatshrink 50cm long wire to wire from connector. Connect to pin 85 on relay.

Do we just leave the other end of the green and black stripe wire? We ONLY wire/solder the connection end and hook it to the relay?

And can I confirm this is for the Kemo switch M113A with model number 24024OM. As I have seen Geeyous video variation where his older serial number wiring did not work with the newer. Cheers mate!!

 

The other end of that wire is dealt with in step 10.
"10. Solder and heatshrink 50cm long wire to green/black wire heading to glow plug relay. Connect to relay pin on Kemo"

Yes. This version is designed to work with the newer models. Ive done several using the 24024OM.

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Cheers for that mate.

Just got back from Jaycar. The Kemo time switch I unpacked has a serial number 14030OM. This must be an older version or new? I can only google three other types none of which are this serial

Any changes needed to the wiring for this model ? Bloody hope it works once I get started lol.

 

Hey mate this is the same model i have. Mine works and all but on cold starts the timer fights as if it doesnt want to stop the timer. I can hear it clicking and sometimes its longer then others to stop it.
Do you have any issues like this

 

All wired up. Works a treat :victory:. Thanks again for an awesome, informative write up! I didn't dare of attempting this mod when I first saw it. The most time consuming part was text screwing the bloody relay in (doesn't help when you have no magnet in the text screw head.. fell out ages ago).

I ended up getting a relay with a fuse so I ditched the inline fuse and popped a 5AMP blade in it apposed to the 30AMP which it came with.

Adjusting the timing is literally a bee's dick of a turn.. best I got it at was 20 seconds.

Cheers mate :coffeeti:

 

Hi All
my wire from the computer joiner was a Green wire with a Black strip but every 10 cm had a grey dot also.
Have wired it up and it does work at this stage
Cheers

 

7. Locate GREEN wire with Black stripe from pin 111 on ECU connector.

Sorry if this is a nob question, but where is this connector located? (Having trouble locating it)

Cheers,
B&B

 

Sorry if this is a nob question, but where is this connector located? (Having trouble locating it)

Cheers,
B&B

It's at the ECU harness connection under the dash in the middle. Sort of behind the heater controls. Look under there from the drivers foot well and you will see a white plastic harness connection held onto the ECU by a 10mm hex bolt. Undo the bolt and pull the plastic connector off to give yourself room. Find the green wire with the black stripe (pin111). There's a photo of it somewhere in this post. You might have to dig back through the pages.

 

Thank you!
I thought that this connector was part of the ECU located on top of the injection pump.
This sounds much more straight forward.

Cheers
B&B

 

Pinouts ECU connector

I found this diagram buried in the Forum useful for finding pin 111 on the ECU connector.

 

I will be installing the Kemo timer soon following skegbudley's 20-04-2016 post: beautifully clear !! Thanks; very useful !!
Just 2 questions:
Would a 10A fuse be OK ?
Where best fit the relay ? (the place where to fit the timer seems OK to me)

 

A 10amp fuse will be fine.
As for the relay. It will sit under the ECU on the transmission tunnel.

 

THX, mate, I will get it fitted now.
My mechanic says it does not make sense to install: never heard of the propblems with the head: I understand from this forum there have been several cases and there is general believe it is due to the glow plug glowing unnecessarily long (5 min).
I told him: even if the risk is not extremely high, the fit is quick and cheap and even if the likelyhood of cracked head is not very high, if it would happen , the cost is considerable, so why not prevent. He believes the cold engine doesn't run nice with glow plugs off and runs much nicer if plug remains on for a while ( > 30 sec ). I don't care about a bit more "diesel-knock" with cold engine, I won't push the accelerator till it is warm anyway. Received my Kemo today 12032OM and will fit it soon.

thanks again ! & learnt a lot from this Forum !!

 

When you see the melt holes in a piston from a ceramic tip having broken off that makes you think about the possibilities, absolutely it doesn't happen often but with the costs being so high it is not worth the risk.

A bad injector spray pattern can contribute to the failure, we have been using these timers for many years without incident, can't remember how long mine has been in, one of the originals before Kemo changed the configuration so they had to be wired up slightly different like this.

I'm still running my original ceramic tips at 320,000k, taken them out several times for inspection (have had a set of metal tips on the shelf for bloody years but never installed them), so if you look after the ceramics by using a timer and also keeping your injectors clean I see no reason they won't last the life of the engine .

 

I don't switch glow plugs on at 10C, ZD30 can start in -5C no fuss. I run Eberspacher heating unit when it is freezing out there.

 

have had a glowplug switch for years....simple connection from ECU to redlit toggle....if its cold i turn them on, wait a few secs, start, turn off. Why install a timer?

 

This question has been asked many times in the original thread by people who don't have them and the answer is, because quite a few of us like them, they are simple and idiot proof.

The only hiccup was a change Kemo made (that they reckon they didn't when I contacted them years ago) so it just became a slightly different wiring technique to original to get them up and running, I found another way in another thread. My original one has been in for years set at 20 or 30 seconds (so long I can't remember) and I wouldn't be without it and I'm still running original ceramics after 320,000k .

 

And even though I'm not planning on keeping the zd in , I will be doing this mod on my GU and my mates who has a push button that he hates .


Sent from Alf Stewart's rape dungeon .

 

Hey guys im new here. Recently got a gu so doing a few mods and stuff. I just done this one yesterday. I got it to glow roughly 20 seconds. Its hard with the sensitive adjustments.
I noticed with my kemo timer it sometimes clicks like its trying to turn off before it actually turns off (noticed it while adjusting it) is this normal ?

 

Ive noticed this morning that my timer dodnt want to turn off. The clicking is it trying to turn off but it keeps going.
I had to turn the timer right back anti clockwise and it turned off.
Does anyone know why its doing this? Ive double checked the wiring is correct to this post.

 

Mate of mine timer done the same thing after about a year.
Bought a new timer and it was fixed.
Sounded like relay wasnt working properly.
If yours is new maybe a warranty job.
Cheers

 

Yeah it sort of sounds like a relay constantly going on and off every few seconds once the timer has gotten to its time off time.

Did he change the model timer or just replaced it with another one the same?

 

I've had issues with cheaper relays in the past causing wierd faults. Work perfectly well on spotlights but spaz out on the timer circuit.

 

Hi Skegbudley,

Thanks for the great post. About to embark on this myself as I've just done a full engine rebuild on a 2000 Patrol and want to avoid the cracking I had across all 4 cylinders and the tip of the glow plug the embedded itself in the head and top of the piston!

A few questions if you don't mind, I am looking to steal some of the wiring points from http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/3-litre-zd30-di-engine-71/gu-iv-glow-plug-timer-mod-189290/ but using the Kemo;

- The green wire with black stripe. Is this the wire that is connected to the glow plug relay and is grounded by the ECU in factory setup?
- When the relay is activated it appears to close the normally open circuit between pin 30 & 87 basically connecting the start and stop pins on Kemo to each other. Is this correct? If so I don't understand how/why that works (I sure it does, I just don't understand).
- Step 16. Locate Blue wire with pink dot at back of ignition switch.
What is this wire? Is it just an ignition switched +12V feed? If so I assume we could pick this up from anywhere.

I want to also use the in dash lamp as Lemo does in the link I provided above. I'm thinking I could add another relay that is grounded by the relay pin on the Kemo timer to ground the dash light via a 2.2k resistor.

Thanks in advance, Craig.

 

Hi Skegbudley,

Thanks for the great post. About to embark on this myself as I've just done a full engine rebuild on a 2000 Patrol and want to avoid the cracking I had across all 4 cylinders and the tip of the glow plug the embedded itself in the head and top of the piston!

A few questions if you don't mind, I am looking to steal some of the wiring points from http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/3-litre-zd30-di-engine-71/gu-iv-glow-plug-timer-mod-189290/ but using the Kemo;

- The green wire with black stripe. Is this the wire that is connected to the glow plug relay and is grounded by the ECU in factory setup? Yes it is. End going to ECU goes to 85 on relay. End going to glow plug relay goes to relay port on Kemo.
- When the relay is activated it appears to close the normally open circuit between pin 30 & 87 basically connecting the start and stop pins on Kemo to each other. Is this correct? Yes this is correct. If so I don't understand how/why that works (I sure it does, I just don't understand).
- Step 16. Locate Blue wire with pink dot at back of ignition switch.
What is this wire? Is it just an ignition switched +12V feed? If so I assume we could pick this up from anywhere. It is a ignition switched circuit that does not have a power cut during startup like most others. One of the problems we found with the later timers is they are very sensitive to when power is applied. Using this wire fixes the problem.

I want to also use the in dash lamp as Lemo does in the link I provided above. I'm thinking I could add another relay that is grounded by the relay pin on the Kemo timer to ground the dash light via a 2.2k resistor. You are best off running a wire from the glow plug bus bar to a indicator lamp so you definitely know when power is on or off.

Thanks in advance, Craig.

I've been meaning to look into the other wiring method to see if access to the glow plug wire is easier. Have a Kemo install either this weekend or next so I will look at it then.