Hi Powermann, 550c is certainly ideal but these motors come from Nissan tuned for 600c max which still leaves a little bit of headroom.

Did you notice what the boost was on at the time?

 

wheres the probe installed?

 

Whitie - boost limited to 15 psi (dawes valve) - but - didn't don't actually remember what boost it was running.

tweak'e - pyro probe installed in dump pipe about 75mm from turbo.

NOTE: engine was leaking oil from the injector to head seals due to poor injector alignment when returned from engine builder.. I have revieved EXCELLENT customer service from the and this production oversight has now been fixed, if I can find a camers, photos will follow...

 

Whitie - boost limited to 15 psi (dawes valve) - but - didn't don't actually remember what boost it was running.

Could be the lower boost as the 600c from factory is at boost which is closer to 18psi.

 

thats EGT sounds to high for after turbo. check there is no boost leaks. i would be checking its getting enough boost and there is no obstructions in the intake. otherwise its getting to much fuel (or engine oil) for some reason.

has it got a new injection pump or ECU ?

 

thats EGT sounds to high for after turbo. check there is no boost leaks. i would be checking its getting enough boost and there is no obstructions in the intake. otherwise its getting to much fuel (or engine oil) for some reason.

has it got a new injection pump or ECU ?

I'll monitor he oil consumption, now that I've fixed the leaks. The engine has a vacupan fitted for blowby disposal - though they are notorious for not working well at high revs...

 

Was there any load on the engine, trailer, excessive amounts of equipment in the back etc?

I cant push my zd30 past 400 no matter how hard i try and mine is setup as a full tourer (read heavy). Did the fuel pump get done up during the overhaul? Need to see if its blowing excessive black smoke. It will be sucking the juice if thats the issue mind you, i only get 16l/100km and my egts are still fine.

 

Was there any load on the engine, trailer, excessive amounts of equipment in the back etc?

I cant push my zd30 past 400 no matter how hard i try and mine is setup as a full tourer (read heavy). Did the fuel pump get done up during the overhaul? Need to see if its blowing excessive black smoke. It will be sucking the juice if thats the issue mind you, i only get 16l/100km and my egts are still fine.

The vehicle was running on an old water dyno, so I was limiting speed with the load to 160 km/h. The pump was checked and given a basic seal kit during the overhaul, and I fitted new injectors. Before overhaul I couln't get the temp past 450 no matter how hard I tried. The fuel economy is much better - it was creeping into the 14's, now its back to 11.5 - 12 again... The strange thing is that there was no black smoke - but lack of boost (air flow) could be the issue - I'll run it up again to see what the boost is at WOT.

 

if yours is a no modified zd30, then it is seams OK. as mine zd30 ( all stock)'s egt reading after cat is about 500max, considering after cat can reduce the temp, yours is just under the design limit. other people who modified their zd30 can get a much lower reading.

 

Hi Powermann,

I'm pushing getting anything higher than 550 degrees (probe installed in a similar position to yours), and that EGT is going up a steep hill with foot flat to floor. Normal cruising, the EGT sits between 300-400. I've not blocked my EGR at this stage.

Regards, Patrol3L

 

reading EGT's after the cat is complete waste of time. not only will there be a big delay there is several chemical reactions going on that can INCREASE as well as decrease temps, not to mention the gas restriction.

generally speaking loose about 200 degrees across the turbo, so if after turbo is 600 means pre turbo is 800 degrees.

 

i have not modified the car yet. anyone in sydney areas know where to get a cheap cat with 2.75 inches pipes , and off course, muffler etc? and how much would it cost?

 

I have the dawes valve installed on mine ( no egr blocking plate and no needle valve yet , still ecu /vacuum solenoid controlled ) set to max of 15 psi and I find it hard to get up past 530 on the egt`s . Only can get up there by flooring it in 4th or 5th gear and getting boost to drop down to 6-7 psi whiilst climbing steady incline and then let boost rebuild up .
​

 

Ran the car up again this afternoon - boost drops to 12 psi at 4000 rpm - so there's probably not enough air going through the engine (for whatever reason).
Mods to engine so far:
~ Factory snorkel, New airflow sensor, new turbo [the later one without the water cooling ], Dawes valve, pyro, boost intake air temperature gauges, Air/ water intercooler
~ New head, injectors, glowplugs, 2nd back cut the valves, blended the ports, new (balanced) pistons, resized (balanced) rods, single mass flywheel, safari clutch,
~ 3" exhaust from the turbo, gonzo muffler, resonator, long ranger tanks, 2" lift, etc. etc. etc...

 

Oh, and the EGR is blocked too.

 

Limp mode and too hot

I have been pulling my hair out with this machine have
I hope someone can help out on this one.


2003 Manual ZD30 220km
First before I did the nads it went into limp mode
Replaced the MAF fixed did the nads and slowly every now and then limp mode
Was running fine for a while now just hits limp mode in about a minute when warm
About 70kms from cold start
Hers what happened the last trip
Also I have tried so many combinations with the dawes and needle valve and doesn’t hold

50 km travelled stays under 300 degrees
Starts climbing
100kmh 6-7 psi

60kmh 2000 rpm 2 psi 390 degrees
Climbing temperature

70km travelled limp mode 450degrees
80kmh accelerating 4th gear

After driving through Traralgon small town traffic lights etc etc...
climbs through stop start and hits 500 degrees

100km travelled 4th gear 590 degrees up a hill
100kmh 600degrees 107km travelled

Nothing changes temperature speed etc...
116km travelled stoped to idle temp drops to 500 degrees after 10 mins only

Set off again 100kmh limp mode 10psi
154 km stopped 590 degrees

 

I have been pulling my hair out with this machine have
I hope someone can help out on this one.


2003 Manual ZD30 220km
First before I did the nads it went into limp mode
Replaced the MAF fixed did the nads and slowly every now and then limp mode
Was running fine for a while now just hits limp mode in about a minute when warm
About 70kms from cold start
Hers what happened the last trip
Also I have tried so many combinations with the dawes and needle valve and doesn’t hold

50 km travelled stays under 300 degrees
Starts climbing
100kmh 6-7 psi

60kmh 2000 rpm 2 psi 390 degrees
Climbing temperature

70km travelled limp mode 450degrees
80kmh accelerating 4th gear

After driving through Traralgon small town traffic lights etc etc...
climbs through stop start and hits 500 degrees

100km travelled 4th gear 590 degrees up a hill
100kmh 600degrees 107km travelled

Nothing changes temperature speed etc...
116km travelled stoped to idle temp drops to 500 degrees after 10 mins only

Set off again 100kmh limp mode 10psi
154 km stopped 590 degrees

Very easy to answer, if you go to the ZD30DI subsection and open the archives, then look at the index and go to polls and surveys (post 12), we started a thread on this years ago that has a full compliment of answers for vehicles with various modifications, there were actually two surveys done over time, the first one is compressed at the beginning of the thread.

Easy peasy.

 

Just to add, the lower the boost the higher the EGT. Secondly, if your getting limp at 10psi then you have another issue somewhere.

I always recommend to new guys to set up the spool rate at around 5-6psi at 1500rpm and 10-12psi at around 2000rpm, this will give you a cruising boost of between 9-11psi, which is good for fuel eco but is a trade off on EGT.

We have come a long way and learned a lot more since the days of that thread, quite often it is worth starting a new one rather than add to an old thread.

Start off with checking all your hoses and maybe clean out the Dawes as sometimes oil gets into boost controllers slowing reaction time, also maybe your MAF is just faulty?

In my sig is a link to my YouTube ch, in there I have a vid on how to pull apart and reassemble a Dawes and get back to where you were.

Do not let it sit at EGT of over 550C for long periods, that can be quite dangerous for extended applications.