[skegbudley]

Thanks, I can use my compressor or a bicycle pump. When my mate lost his I was going to buy a kit but holy moly a good one is expensive, being a bower bird I have all sorts of bits and pieces laying around so it was just a matter of finding them lol, that pressure gauge would be at least 30 years old and never used, it was a left over from a project I worked on, I have pressure gauges, regulators, vacuum gauges, you always know that one day they will come in handy .
Yes I hope so too, enthusiasm for a repair at the moment is not very high.

I'm all too happy to come over and give you a hand anytime mate if you aren't fully up to it due to health/injury, cbf factor etc.

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[skegbudley]

Good on him, hope he makes a motza. Obviously others think similarly similarly to me and I could dispute the timing, he's not a protected species for me, I had been working on it for a long time and I owe him nothing in any ZD30 research where I have often been the leader in trying things, I've put more time into ZD30 research than a hell of a lot of people so I really don't care what he has done, as said, I owe him nothing.

Nobody owes anybody anything. We all combine our love of modifing Patrols for the benefit of eveyone. You have certainly gone above and beyond in this.
I certainly don't do it for the money and neither do you.

I like shiny stuff

 

[skegbudley]

My strut is still working fine after all these years. (I introduced it to the forum )
I did take the time to paint all the holes prior to fitting so there have been no issues.
There is a diy somewhere with your rubber spacer mod. It works great too. Just doesn't open the door for you.

ZD30 rules the road.

 

[skegbudley]

Gday Ross. Just reading back through some of your posts and watching a few clips, which Vac Solenoid are you using on your now dual control single dawes setup?

Another great idea from Geeyoutoo.
I didn't have a solinoid already mounted so I improvised.
You can repurpose the vac solinoid from the swirl control since its not needed anymore. I relocated mine to the bracket next to the ABS.

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[skegbudley]

Thank you Ross. same with mine 2000.
I did not know the 2003+ ECUs were making use of the MAP.
Talking about MAP, the nice thing is that it is an absolute sensor which provides an accurate reading even in altitude (ie negative pressure vs sea-level 1013mbar). And it runs ok until almost 22psi ( almost 1.5V output ).
That's why I used the stock sensor to manage boost.

The 2003+ don't normally use the MAP. That was a extra bit of trickery to improve fuel delivery.

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[skegbudley]

For what I have understood, the ECU does not make any use of the MAP sensor to compute fueling orders to the IP, but the MAF sensor, which is why the latter is so important to our PATROL, and has to be an original one. That said, as soon as you have the VNT properly managed, the vanes accurately opened, and you do not build-up excessive back pressure, the MAF tension is homothetical to the MAP tension. That's why any of the two can be used to manage boost and the VNT.

What is really annoying with this PATROL, are the LIMP modes, again due to the ECU controlling the MAF tension vs RPM ( and by the way, MAF tension is quite proportional to RPM as can be seen on the graphs). Overcoming those by controling the MAF value at all times vs RPM as I do leads to less fuel being injected by the IP under only some driving conditions, unless, you are right, you go for a Remap.

Yes the MAF is very important on Di engines. I spent a lot of time adjusting MAF voltages to suit my mods and driving style before remaps were available. Limp mode is dead simple to tune out on a remap by raising the expected MAF voltage in the MAF voltage/RPM map
My tune goes a bit further and applies a greater value to the MAP sensor. MAF voltage still has a part to play but it is only a small percentage. I can still easily cruise at 100kph with a dead MAF. Just need to clear the occasional code from the MAF using the ECUtalk.

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[skegbudley]

Funny you say that.. noticed mine is weeping after 4years..

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Mine was too untill I put a 2nd blocking plate in at the EGR valve end of the ally pipe when I replaced the IP. Bloody thing corroded out from the inside and broke through in several places. Could hear a bit of extra noise but couldn't see the worst bits due to the CC intercooler hiding it. Need to source another pipe in the near future. Spewing that I didn't grab one when I picked up my spare intake manifold and rocker cover a while back.
As for removing the EGR completely. It's been tempting but unlike a well cut blanking plate. It is very obvious to the popo and DOT. The first bloke to make a ZD30 Di forward facing intake plenum got busted for having deleted his EGR a month after he fitted the manifold. They had no issues with the rest of his engine mods. The removal of EGR was too obvious for them to ignore.
Easiest way to never have a issue with the EGR again is to blank it at the exhaust manifold end and bypass the coolant hose at the same time.

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[skegbudley]

I've always been confused by this situation. I can understand why it's hard to add fuel after a certain point due to pump limitations and timing control but why can't you turn down pumps low enough to suit bigger injectors down low? Is there some kind of minium fuel delivery that sets this limit and you can't reduce it any further than that? But then I'm thinking idle fuel delivery is really really small so I'm finding it a bit confusing, maybe it's something to do with the ECU and a limit on parameters that can be adjusted that makes this the hard part?

It completely depends on which engine you are talking about. It's pretty easy to do on the ZD30 due to the electronic control of fuel delivery. Our standard pump can easily deliver more fuel than 100% injectors can handle. (The only reason Patrick's ZD30 Di is around 10kw lower than the highest powered CRD for the time being is that the 100% injectors don't quite deliver enough fuel.)
Going in the opposite direction it is basically a matter of reducing fueling by the percentage increase of the larger injectors to bring AFRs back to normal. A simple Excel spreadsheet can calculate the required changes without much effort. Only difficult part is having to remove and replace the ECU multiple times in order to change out ROMs inbetween dyno runs and road testing runs. Experienced tuners like Harley can do it pretty easily.
I had a funny thaught about this last night. How many mechanics thaught that studying maths at school would be helpfull later on in life as a mechanic? I'd say very few of them. Maths doesn't help much when tuning a TD42's IP but work on most modern engines and tuning is basically a mathematical equation for the base tune. Get the calcs right and she will run great. Stuff them up and it goes to crap. I stuffed up a earlier tune on mine due to tiredness & a few rums and lost 30hp between 2000 and 2500rpm. Was easy to fix once I realized I made a boo boo but had us wondering at the time.

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[skegbudley]

Know how you feel mate, you may remember the underground water leaks we had a little while back that needed to be dug up for near 11m (just finished that off the other day it took that long for the ground to dry out), then put the new turbo on, off, back on over a week and my 74 year old body still hasn't recovered , maybe some of those endone I have left over from Achilles operation might come in handy after the IP change .

Mate, can you remember the size of the harmonic balancer nut?

41mm mate

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[skegbudley]

Don't these engines rev out to nearly 5000rpm? You're missing out on half the fun :grin: I used to change gears around the 2000rpm range too but that was because my max Hp peaked so low, flattening out and dropped away further up the rev range. Don't be scared of having the max Hp higher up in the rev range, you might actually enjoy the greater usability of the engine. I have a small inclination that your driving style may change slightly with this new turbo. As well as being able to be lazy and leave it in fourth/fifth gear in situations that would normally require you to change down it also works the other way where you can leave it in third a lot longer revving it slightly higher. The later of which I find really helps in city/suburban driving. It will be really interesting to hear if you find any change in your driving.

Big difference between those with manuals and autos. Most manual drives change up at relatively low revs. (Which is a hangover from driving old school diesels IMO) The ZD is designed to rev. Mine sees 4500 every day of the week with the auto.

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[skegbudley]

Last May, their new stage 3 H/F was $2400 (presumable bench tested with correct actuator adjustment?).
Like mine, a reworked stock M24 Garrett (m/c high flowed, Billet compressor whl and dual thrust bearings unknown no blades configuration on exhaust wheel) $1600 direct. I queried the low spool up, especially 4&5th gear, they advised me that to adjust rod to keep the veins closed longer to achieve quicker shaft spin up, or give more fuel low down if not producing smoke (too rich). Yes, Harley was and still is disappointed that Procharge do not set up actuator on their reworked turbo(what they do currently, I don't know).
Would like the opportunity to measure one of their new H/F turbo(not a rework jobbie). I got a bit of a run around the paddock and return comms dropped off early on.

It has taken me many hours of on road testing, observing on-board gauges, vac pump in hand and the feel in the seat of pants to achieve good result. Harley considers my result is rewarding and falls in line with factory set point. He is looking fwd to getting it back on the rollers.

Only interested in moving fwd and it does run well now. Did a recent run from Melb to CBR area with tow (1200kg), out on the road did not drop down out of 5th gear with good spool rates, holds boost and hauls real well. Tow ECO 13.8 l/100ks over the 700ks running the speed limits. Loves the snowy mtns tracks. Get max boost 1,2,3 gear by 1800rpm and 2000rpm for 4&5th. See what airbox and tune brings on.

Unfortunately there are only about 4 mobs in Australia that have the machine to correctly adjust our turbos. Procharge ain't one of them. I've been tempted to get one but I'm patient enough to wait for a "better" solution.

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[skegbudley]

Personally I wouldn't bother trying to glue it. I prefer this fix.

ZD30 rules the road.

 

[skegbudley]

Nice work as usual Ross.

ZD30 rules the road.

 

[skegbudley]

I'm told imitation is a form of flattery, my first one and original design went out onto the net probably a year ago and a mate emailed me some pics he saw on Fakebook or YouTube recently of someone who'd replicated it in stainless tube. After working in the food manufacturing industry for over 50 Years I have a Stainless fetish myself, but due to poor heat dissipation qualities and costs I wouldn't have made them out of st/st.

The plan always was to follow up with a second batch if they were wanted and from recent contact it seems there may be. These ones were very labour intensive making doing it for the fun more than making any profit from it a questionable exercise, anyway (keep this under your hat ) there is a plan B (and a plan C) which is in the birthing stage right now, I've measured it up and done dimensioned sketches, it's a slightly different concept which I've passed on to @OldMav as he has had a lot of experience with various manufacturing companies and process's.

So, can it be done (both options)? how much will it cost? what is an economic order quantity? When these questions are answered we can move forward.

Stay tuned won't happen overnight, it's a slow Process.

Yes Cory is making them out of stainless. There are a lot of us that aren't fans of stainless for this application. Not to mention lobster back.
He is also making intake pipework but hasn't done the research that we have in regards to the effects of larger pipework from the airbox. A lot of people are buying them just because they look good.

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[skegbudley]

Sweet.

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[skegbudley]

Looks great mate. Let me know when mine is done. [emoji6]

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[skegbudley]

Very nice mate.

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[skegbudley]

I was talking to a engineer about using the VNT solinoid and a cheap electronic controler a short while back. Its still a work in progress but has a lot of merit.
Hopefully he has some results to show soon. The Tillix works great but there are advantages in using a electronic controler.

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[skegbudley]

Yesterday afternoon after spending the morning changing Alternator and belt tensioner (more on this later) I had to drive to the south of Brisbane, near Skeg country at Alexandria Hills for a housewarming, on the 2 hour trip down with very little traffic I was able to do some OCD observations, one that cropped up was TPS%, for years I have been in 19/20/21% territory at 100K cruise control on flat ground (which describes perfectly the Bruce between Sunshine Coast and Brisbane), bugga me it has dropped to 17/18/19% and that was repeatable, so as well as torque, I've picked up a 2% deficiency gain.........

You too? I thaught I was imagining it but it definitely takes less throttle than before.

 

[skegbudley]

Pretty good results Ross, it'll be interesting to read your results after you tweak the voltage modifier.
Did Harley mention anything about the glow plug timing?

Glow plug timing is a bit funny depending on software version. Works on some cars but not others. Weird kind of glitch in nissan's programming.